All Locations > Oklahoma > Wichita Mountai… > Charon's Gardens > Westside Rdside > Capybara Cliff

Hueco Yanks

Name: Hueco Yanks
Rating: 3.0

5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13

Routes in Capybara Cliff

L › R R › L A › Z

	Extra Recess T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
	Hueco Yanks T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Nut ASAP T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
	Rainbow Party T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

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Type:	Trad, TR, 35 ft (11 m)
GPS:	34.74134, -98.75046
FA:	John Lozano Miles Johnson TR July 24, 2022, FFA OPEN
Page Views:	291 total · 6/month
Shared By:	Miles Johnson on Jul 23, 2022
Admins:	Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details

Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.

Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.

Description

Hueco Yanks is a silly and very fun line on the right side of Capy Cliff. It is dumb, it is fun, and it is hard. Despite being forced on the perimeter of the 4th/5th class scramble/walkoff to the right, the line uses great holds, hard moves, and a seriously tricky and hard dihedral finish we haven’t seen anywhere in Oklahoma!

Right of the winding River feature that marks Nut ASAP, you can spot a number of huecos about 12’ off the ground. Below the two biggest ones there is a flat horizontal rail at roughly eye level. This marks the start of Hueco Yanks.

Pull up and make thin technical feet with a committing high right hand slimper. If you find this pattern you are in the right spot - you probably will since there’s not much else to work with.

Now, head upstairs a few moves to the jug hueco, place a big fist cam if you want and mantle onto the shelf. Place some thin hands Pro in the horizontal and work up to a stance in a thin acute dihedral. Doubling up here for the probable whip may be a good idea! Rock is bomber but the gear is critical to stay off the ground.

Laugh at yourself and the situation you’re in with gear below your feet and try to figure out the strange, multi-technique beta required to send this last 10’ of Hueco Yanks!

***Sent originally on the TR setup for Nut ASAP. We borrowed “lasso” technique from Welsch climbing and threw a big loop of slack over the dihedral to contain the rope and eliminate a wild swing fall - not recommending this, but it is exciting and fun***

Despite an awkward fall out of the 5.10+ dihedral and then wobbling off the cliff and finally whipping on BD1 type cams, this line is probably the safest lead at Capy Cliff and could be considered PG/PG13.