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Capybara Cliff Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Capybara Cliff

L › R R › L A › Z

	Extra Recess T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
	Hueco Yanks T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Nut ASAP T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
	Rainbow Party T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

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Elevation:	2,147 ft
GPS:	34.74134, -98.75046 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	617 total · 74/month
Shared By:	Miles Johnson on Jul 12, 2022
Admins:	Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details

Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.

Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.

Description

Capybara Cliff sits on the west edge of the north side of Sunset Massif. 3 fun natural lines run up this west face and Go on "gear" in the RX realm or easily setup TRs. Like most of the Wichitas a shorter rope is quite fine and less cumbersome - 40m here and Yellow Snake Hotel and Saloon (13th Prayer, Bible Beater, Priest & The Gun, & RIP John Brown) will have plenty of tail on the ground.

Bomber key holds and exciting, exposed feeling crux sequences. Virgin wall with plenty of scales that need to be cleaned up over time - Crux sequences Go on bomber holds. If you're climbing on scales during a crux, send it sketch if you want, or re-evaluate for unique bomber holds.

A mad snake somewhere in the upper section of Rainbow Party hissed up a storm July 2022 so I wouldn’t rule out a den site, but it did not rattle.

Sent originally on GriGri TRS which was manageable on Rainbow Party but the sustained nature made calling in slack on Extra Recess and Nut ASAP difficult to impossible, creating big whip potential - leaving FFA open until winter. If you live that X rated No Fall lifestyle, tear it up so I won’t have to.

Getting There

Park at the Bird Trap which is 1 parking spot west of 13th Prayer (Saloon) parking and 2 parking spots west of western Bacon Steezburger parking. There is often a conspicuous wire cage trailer parked there. Head uphill on the west side of the ridge. Once you learn where to go you can then approach the ridge directly with less wandering and build a quick anchor you need and rap in.