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Routes in Lower Wall
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A Cut Above the Rest S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Approach Route S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Bucking horse S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Casanova S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Chawesome Corner S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Conception S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Dark Dance, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dark Half, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Deal With It S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Deal With It Wet S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Drink Girl Drunk S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Duck Bill S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Eidolons S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Fresh Cut S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Get to the Choppa S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Go ask Alice S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Gumbino Invasion S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Hickory Dickory Dock S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Ice Cream Head Direct S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Illy Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Justine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Kaizen S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Keys in the Car S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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La Part Maudite S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Last Dance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Last Stop 305 Bus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Lose Yourself S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Naissance de le Femme S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Nemo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Neoconstructionist S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nickle Bag S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Nitro S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Nitro Light S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Nyctophobia S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Old School S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Once or Twice S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Original Dogs S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Pandora S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Pluvial Power S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Shin to the Dome S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sol Food S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sport Yoga S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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SR 16 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Subbacultcha S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Teva’s and Tan lines S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Underestimated S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Wet Lust S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Where's Mom? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 51.04579, -115.12814 |
| FA: | Todd Guyn and Shep Steiner 2000 |
| Page Views: | 312 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Dan Bookless on Jul 16, 2022 |
| Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry |
Description
THE PREEMINENT 12C OF THE BOW VALLEY!
(hyperbole aside, this pitch is fantastic!)
This is essentially a link up of The Dark Half and Last Dance with a bit of independent climbing. Begin on Dark Half following the tricky (not strenuous) 5.11 climbing for 6 bolts of fun. At this point instead of heading Left up Dark Half, cut right and follow the diagonal crack system. This section of independent climbing was very "trad-y" and memorable, underclings and smears are the name of the game. It was very reminiscent of granite trad climbing. When you arrive at the intersection with Last Dance get a good shake. The finish is pumpy and powerful. Fortunately, the sequence is fairly easy to read with most of the holds being visible from below. The final section of rock is flawless- a reminder that the rock gods have shown favor on Acephale.
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