Elevation: 4,295 ft
GPS: 51.058, -115.139 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 12,303 total · 507/month
Shared By: Phil Lauffen on Aug 24, 2017
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra
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Description

Acéphale, Pronounced Ass-Ah-Fail by the locals, is a premier crag on the flanks of Heart Mountain. Blue streaked, blocky, and pavement grey limestone buttresses are tucked away in the quiet trees. You can almost ignore the semis engine braking their way into Canmore.

"Ace" is an incredible crag with great climbing from 12- to 14+. If you are climbing at the grade, this is a must visit. It gets shade all day, so can be quite chilly. The routes range in height from 15m to close to 35m.

There are two distinct sectors, the Upper and Lower walls. The Upper wall generally has harder routes that are shorter and more intense. The Lower wall has some incredible power endurance climbs on the left side, and in general more variety in rock quality and flavor.

In general, I have felt the grades at Acéphale stiff and the rock hard on your skin, compared to other crags in the Bow Valley. Prepare thy tips for battle.

Getting There

Drive towards Calgary from Canmore. Pass the Lac de Arcs exit. Go ~2km, and watch for a few ponds and guardrail on your right. At the end of the guardrail swing hard off the highway into a dirt lot. (SEE GPX TRACK FOR MORE DETAILS ON MAP)

Follow a steep trail uphill out of the parking lot until you hit a T intersection. Go left about a hundred feet, then take a right where the trail splits. Head under the power lines for a few hundred feet until the trail bends left into the forest. Continue up this trail, staying right at the fork coming in a few hundred yards. You'll cross the creek a few times, climb up some trail improvements over a water fall, and eventually follow the path up right to some switchbacks taking you quickly to the Lower Wall (45 min). Continue up right another 10 min to arrive at the Upper wall.

56 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Acéphale

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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