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Elevation: 4,296 ft 1,309 m
GPS: 51.05815, -115.13898
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Phil Lauffen on Aug 24, 2017
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry

Description Suggest change

Acéphale, Pronounced Ass-Ah-Fail by the locals, is a premier crag on the flanks of Heart Mountain. Blue streaked, blocky, and pavement grey limestone buttresses are tucked away in the quiet trees. You can almost ignore the semis engine braking their way into Canmore.

"Ace" is an incredible crag with great climbing from 12- to 14+. If you are climbing at the grade, this is a must visit. It gets shade all day, so can be quite chilly. The routes range in height from 15m to close to 35m.

There are two distinct sectors, the Upper and Lower walls. The Upper wall generally has harder routes that are shorter and more intense. The Lower wall has some incredible power endurance climbs on the left side, and in general more variety in rock quality and flavor.

In general, I have felt the grades at Acéphale stiff and the rock hard on your skin, compared to other crags in the Bow Valley. Prepare thy tips for battle.

Getting There Suggest change

Drive towards Calgary from Canmore. Pass the Lac de Arcs exit. Go ~2km, and watch for a few ponds and guardrail on your right. At the end of the guardrail swing hard off the highway into a dirt lot. (SEE GPX TRACK FOR MORE DETAILS ON MAP)

Follow a steep trail uphill out of the parking lot until you hit a T intersection. Go left about a hundred feet, then take a right where the trail splits. Head under the power lines for a few hundred feet until the trail bends left into the forest. Continue up this trail, staying right at the fork coming in a few hundred yards. You'll cross the creek a few times, climb up some trail improvements over a water fall, and eventually follow the path up right to some switchbacks taking you quickly to the Lower Wall (45 min). Continue up right another 10 min to arrive at the Upper wall.

Fixed Gear and Rope Buckets

Suggest change
Since 2019, no fixed gear will be tolerated at Acephale. Please pack in and out everything you need (not a long hike).

See CASA or TABVAR for more information.

106 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Acéphale

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 10
Neoconstructionist
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Dale's Extender
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Nitro Light
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
Where's Mom?
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 15
Hickory Dickory Dock
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 13
Bucking horse
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 8
Rockamoveya
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
Lose Yourself
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 6
Altius
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 9
Deal With It
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
Duck Bill
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 5
Ice Box of Broken Dreams
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 5
39 Steps
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 5
Nemo
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 6
Naissance de le Femme
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Neoconstructionist Lower Wall
 10
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Dale's Extender Upper Wall
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Nitro Light Lower Wall
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Where's Mom? Lower Wall
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Hickory Dickory Dock Lower Wall
 15
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Bucking horse Lower Wall
 13
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Rockamoveya Upper Wall
 8
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Lose Yourself Lower Wall
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Altius Upper Wall
 6
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Deal With It Lower Wall
 9
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Duck Bill Lower Wall
 4
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Ice Box of Broken Dreams Upper Wall
 5
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
39 Steps Upper Wall
 5
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Nemo Lower Wall
 5
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Naissance de le Femme Lower Wall
 6
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Acéphale »

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