Ottovolante
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 13 pitches |
| GPS: | 46.54241, 11.82422 |
| FA: | 1997 by F. Piardi, F. Tremolada and C. Zampieri |
| Page Views: | 326 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Scott Bennett on Jun 27, 2022 |
| Admins: | Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath |
Description
An alpine "sport" route with amazing rock and great movement. One of the better routes of the style/grade in the area. Crimps and pockets on mostly vertical limestone, with the crux pitch just past vertical.
The bolting is adequate but never over done, expect 10-20' between clips, longer on easier terrain. When it's easier still, you'll only find occasional pre-placed threads, which can sometimes be supplemented with trad gear.
Overall felt normal for a bolted route in the mountains, but don't expect a cozy clip-up. Belays are mostly quite plush, but there are a couple hanging stances.
A single 60m is fine to get up the route, or bring a 70m if you want to comfortably link pitches. You'd need a second rope/tag to rap the route or bail. We brought a tagline and hauled a little bag.
From the top, scramble down into the little notch (easier than it looks) and then back up to the main plateau. Hike uphill and gently right on the easy terrain until you find the main trail, about 10 minutes. You'll see the Pisciadu hut to the left, stop in for a coffee and treat before the hike down!
To descend, follow handrails and via ferrata steps down the steep gully. In early season you might encounter some snow, we had a little in mid June, but it wasn't an issue. ~1.5 hours back to the trailhead.



1 Comment