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The Prow Wall
5.14a YDS 8b+ French 32 Ewbanks X+ UIAA 32 ZA E8 7a British
Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
Routes in The Prow Wall
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Cotton Mouth T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fingerbang T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gravity Bong T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Power of Yesterday, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Prow Wall, The T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Teddy Bear's Picnic T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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UnBearable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Written in Stone T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 8 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.6867, -123.135 |
| FA: | Sonnie Trotter |
| Page Views: | 515 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Stu Smith on Jun 5, 2022 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
A good mainly bolt protected route apart from the first two pitches and one or two pieces on the 5th pitch. This route offers a good variety of climbing. Lay backs, technical slab, technical face, pumpy enduro crimping.
Pitch 1 5.10
Climbs the first Pitch of unbearable. A short lay back, to save time skip the anchor and scramble up left then straight up into the woods to belay at a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 5.10
The least enjoyable pitch of the route climbs up dirty rock and gains a large horizontal tree band move right to belay.
Pitch 3 5.12
A long fully bolted face route, great rock and and movement to a high rightwards crux traverse and a pumpy layback corner below the belay ledge
Pitch 4 5.14
follow bolts up towards the cool wave like feature. A thing rightward traverse gets to you a crimp rail make a big move out right to another crimp rail where the angle steepens to vertical and boulder your way up to the lip of the wave preform a very thin technical mantel to establish on the slab and clip on of the bolts make some balancy moves out left then a very technical 5.11 slab sequence guards the anchor which is up and left around some choss.
Pitch 5 5.11
follow the stacked blocks up (optional gear .4 #2) some cool bolted laybacking and a nice face sequence right below the anchor.
Pitch 6 5.13
The money Pitch! Follow bolts weaving their way up vertical stone. crazy dyke fangs crimps and jugs, juggy underclings and thin technical Boulder problems give a very nice pump by the time the anchor is reached.
Pitch 7 5.12
Climb to a high first bolt and gain a horizontal following it right with difficulty and throw a heel hookup to mantel. Continue up choosy rock to a very thin heart breaker finish to gain the glory ledge.
Pitch 8 5.12
A single move boulder problem gains a left facing rail follow this for a couple moves and mantel the wall. You did it, now elbow your way past tourist hikers and climbers down the hiking trail or rappel.
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