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Routes in The Prow Wall

Cotton Mouth T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fingerbang T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gravity Bong T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Teddy Bear's Picnic T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
UnBearable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Description

The highest west facing wall in the South Gully. Easily viewed from the Squamish Buttress. Recognizable by the major prow like corner capped by a jutting roof, a popular launch point for base jumpers. The first ascent was in 1968, details and route description sketchy.

One of the cleanest, most aesthetic formations on the Chief.

Getting There

Approach via the Apron to Kashmir Wall. From Kasmir walk ten minutes up the South Gulley. First pitch not obvious until your underneath it. This pitch deposits you on ledge underneath Teddy Bears Picnic and Gravity Bong.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Prow Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
UnBearable
Trad 6 pitches
UnBearable 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 6 pitches
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I climbed on the Prow Wall three times recently. For what it's worth, I thought the approach from the top of the Apron, up South Gully, to the bottom of the Prow Wall was pretty rough: slimy, loose, mosquito-infested, and steep. Then, the flared right-facing corner access pitch was wet, like running with water. It was still climbable but more stressful than 10+ ought to be. That said, it's kind of a fun, novel challenge to climb the water and grime.

Likewise, hiking to the top of the Prow Wall via the 2nd Peak Trail is steep but straightforward. Going at a fairly mild pace, it took us an hour to get up there - a good bit less than climbing Rock On and scrambling South Gully. Furthermore, rapping a given route allows you to stash water and other gear at ledges (no hauling necessary!) and is super straightforward due to numerous bolted anchors and steep, clean pulls. The only drawback is that you may need two ropes, but I'm pretty sure a 70m will work to rap Teddy Bear's with some minor shenanigans to clip directionals on the steep pitches. Rapping Teddy Bear's lands you on the tree ledge above the access pitch; then you can decide for yourself if you must go all the way down. Aug 26, 2014

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