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Gravity Bong
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 4 from 3
votes
Routes in The Prow Wall
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Cotton Mouth T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fingerbang T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gravity Bong T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Power of Yesterday, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Prow Wall, The T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Teddy Bear's Picnic T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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UnBearable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Written in Stone T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), Grade IV |
| GPS: | 49.6867, -123.135 |
| FA: | Colin Moorhead, Tony Richardson, Jason Kruk |
| Page Views: | 7,133 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | Colin Moorhead on Aug 28, 2010 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Sustained, varied climbing on one of the cleanest formations on the Chief.
1. 5.10c. Awkward flare leads to face traverse and right leaning crack.
2. 5.11c. Scruffy ramp to chimney. Pull out of chimney into pumpy, vertical layback, face climbing traverse past one bolt to the anchor.
3. "The Guillotine" 5.12a. A few face moves into lasercut dihedral. Tips crux widens to off hands jamming and laybacking, undercling down and left to belay stance.
WARNING! A fully detached 50' X 60' flake is perched on the wall right of the lasercut dihedral, the edge of which offers tantalizing hand jams and stemming opportunities. It is easily avoided by staying in the main corner. It is very loose and flexes alarmingly with very little pressure. DON'T TOUCH.
4. 5.12c. Fully (6) bolted. Overhanging stemming and laybacking. After the fifth bolt wild moves pull out and around the arete.
5. 5.12a. The cryptic pitch. Face traverse right to ramp. Finger crack to technical face trending back left to belay.
6. 5.12b. A short, crisp splitter leads to deceivingly pumpy hand traverse. Overhanging tips crux quickly relents to vertical 5.9 hands in an amazing position near the edge of the prow.
7. 5.11c. Finger traverse and face climb around the edge of the prow into Teddy Bears Picnic, a short pitch.
8. 5.13a. Changing corners pitch. Fully (5) bolted. Powerful and bouldery.
9. 5.12a. Up corner to crux reach to arete. The difficulty of this pitch varies greatly depending on reach.
4 Comments