All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Chief > The Prow Wall
Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft, Grade IV|
|FA:||Colin Moorhead, Tony Richardson, Jason Kruk|
|Page Views:||4,694 total, 53/month|
|Shared By:||Colin Moorhead on Aug 28, 2010|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Kate Lynn|
DescriptionSustained, varied climbing on one of the cleanest formations on the Chief.
1. 5.10c. Awkward flare leads to face traverse and right leaning crack.
2. 5.11c. Scruffy ramp to chimney. Pull out of chimney into pumpy, vertical layback, face climbing traverse past one bolt to the anchor.
3. "The Guillotine" 5.12a. A few face moves into lasercut dihedral. Tips crux widens to off hands jamming and laybacking, undercling down and left to belay stance.
WARNING! A fully detached 50' X 60' flake is perched on the wall right of the lasercut dihedral, the edge of which offers tantalizing hand jams and stemming opportunities. It is easily avoided by staying in the main corner. It is very loose and flexes alarmingly with very little pressure. DON'T TOUCH.
4. 5.12c. Fully (6) bolted. Overhanging stemming and laybacking. After the fifth bolt wild moves pull out and around the arete.
5. 5.12a. The cryptic pitch. Face traverse right to ramp. Finger crack to technical face trending back left to belay.
6. 5.12b. A short, crisp splitter leads to deceivingly pumpy hand traverse. Overhanging tips crux quickly relents to vertical 5.9 hands in an amazing position near the edge of the prow.
7. 5.11c. Finger traverse and face climb around the edge of the prow into Teddy Bears Picnic, a short pitch.
8. 5.13a. Changing corners pitch. Fully (5) bolted. Powerful and bouldery.
9. 5.12a. Up corner to crux reach to arete. The difficulty of this pitch varies greatly depending on reach.