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Teddy Bear's Picnic
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Will Stanhope (first continuous ascent) |
Page Views: | 2,106 total · 22/month |
Shared By: | Christopher Barlow on Aug 26, 2014 |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes are currently closed until further notice. Existing closures will remain in effect through the winter, as changing temperatures and weather events may trigger more debris to fall in areas where rock falls have occurred recently.
North Wall Closure Area
A new rock fall occurred Sept. 20th on the Zodiac Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: all routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Angels Crest on the Lower Zodiac Wall.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Dark Side Bouldering Closure Area
The debris field from the Sept. 20th rock fall reached the Dark Side bouldering area, and this area is now closed.
Grand Wall Closure Area
The base of the Grand Wall (between Sense of Urgency and Commando Crack) and all trails leading to these areas. This includes climbing routes such as Java Jive, Coyote, Flex Capacitor, Commando Crack, Movin’ to Montana, Knacker Cracker, Teenage Wasteland, Exasperator, Peasant’s Route, War of the Raptors, Cruel Shoes, The Flake, Apron Strings, Sunday Whites, and Sense of Urgency.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Grand Wall Boulders Closure Area
All Bouldering areas between but not including Cacademon Boulder and Titanic North have also been closed. This area includes: Gilligan’s Island, Mantel Madness, Undertow, Lipsmack, Superfly, Octagon, Black Dyke, Viper, Thighmaster, and Survivor.
Boudlering Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Western Dihedrals Closure Area
A very large rockfall recently occurred where the Western Dihedrals meet the Grand Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: Deadend Dihedral, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Slhanay Closure Area
All routes between and including Dogzilla and The White Feather.
Slhanay Closure Area Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
North Wall Closure Area
A new rock fall occurred Sept. 20th on the Zodiac Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: all routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Angels Crest on the Lower Zodiac Wall.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Dark Side Bouldering Closure Area
The debris field from the Sept. 20th rock fall reached the Dark Side bouldering area, and this area is now closed.
Grand Wall Closure Area
The base of the Grand Wall (between Sense of Urgency and Commando Crack) and all trails leading to these areas. This includes climbing routes such as Java Jive, Coyote, Flex Capacitor, Commando Crack, Movin’ to Montana, Knacker Cracker, Teenage Wasteland, Exasperator, Peasant’s Route, War of the Raptors, Cruel Shoes, The Flake, Apron Strings, Sunday Whites, and Sense of Urgency.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Grand Wall Boulders Closure Area
All Bouldering areas between but not including Cacademon Boulder and Titanic North have also been closed. This area includes: Gilligan’s Island, Mantel Madness, Undertow, Lipsmack, Superfly, Octagon, Black Dyke, Viper, Thighmaster, and Survivor.
Boudlering Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Western Dihedrals Closure Area
A very large rockfall recently occurred where the Western Dihedrals meet the Grand Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: Deadend Dihedral, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Slhanay Closure Area
All routes between and including Dogzilla and The White Feather.
Slhanay Closure Area Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Please go to the Squamish Access Society website for up-to-date access information. Also join their Facebook page, or follow them on Instagram, and please consider joining or donating to support the climbing you love in Squamish.
COVID-19 - Follow BC travel and medical guidelines. The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to Provincial Travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and Health Authority directions for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
Parks Closures and Day Use Permits Parks were closed in 2020 then a day use permit system was instituted in some places. Please check Parks and Rec Site Closures for up-to-date information. Specifically, for the Stawamus Chief before using to ascend or descend for climbing.
CAMPING
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary, This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· the whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· the Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· the dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping.
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
COVID-19 - Follow BC travel and medical guidelines. The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to Provincial Travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and Health Authority directions for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
Parks Closures and Day Use Permits Parks were closed in 2020 then a day use permit system was instituted in some places. Please check Parks and Rec Site Closures for up-to-date information. Specifically, for the Stawamus Chief before using to ascend or descend for climbing.
CAMPING
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary, This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· the whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· the Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· the dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping.
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Teddy Bear's Picnic is the original hard route up the Prow Wall, tackling a fairly direct and ridiculously exposed line staying quite close to the actual prow feature from bottom to top. All of the pitches are very good climbing, and the two hardest are truly exceptional as they ascend aesthetic features with diverse, athletic, and difficult movement.
Note: This description begins on the tree ledge one pitch above South Gully. This pitch is described as the start of Gravity Bong/Unbearable. It is 10+/11- and often wet, making it fun in a different kind of way.
P1 (12-, 35m): Climb the flare/chimney directly above the bolted anchor that arcs wildly left and spits you out onto bolted face climbing. Continue climbing left to a nice, flat pedestal with a bolted belay. Alternatively, you can traverse left and up along the tree ledge and climb the first pitch of Unbearable to the same pedestal.
P2 (11c, 35m): A diverse and totally awesome pitch. Climb a steep seam, past two bolts, that opens to a finger crack, then up an off-width to a stance. Clip a bolt and layback/squeeze the arete to another stance below the Elevator Shaft. Climb the Shaft; it's really fun. Belay at a ledge with two bolts.
P3 (12-, 25m): Very sustained stemming, fingers/tips jams, laybacking, and hip/shoulder scumming up the right-facing corner (the left side of the shaft). At the top of the corner swing right (Unbearable moves left) under the roof, bolt above your head, to a ledge. Jam/layback up the left-facing corner (making sure to save multiple thin fingers-size cams for this section) to some exposed moves to arrive at "Rancho Relaxo," a very nice belay alcove.
P4 (12d, 28m): A mind-blowing overhanging crack. Climb straight up from the alcove, then traverse right around the corner (be gentle on the stump!) past a bolt to a stance on the exact edge of the prow below the splitter that goes on forever. Start with delicate moves on the hairline seam, then power up the steeper fingers and thin hand jams to a ledge rest. Continue up the crack as it narrows back down, eventually moving left and also using the right facing corner crack, ending at a bolted hanging belay below two lines of bolts.
P5 (13a, 15m): The Changing Corners. Layback tenuously up to the sharp arete. Channel your inner Houdini to get around it, and then power up some more very powerful laybacking and crimping that eases off as you move to another spacious ledge and anchor. This pitch is fully bolted (5 total), and it would be highly advantageous to have the draws already hung, especially a long draw/sling on bolt 3. (There is also a line of bolts directly up the round corner directly above the belay that you can use as an aid escape.)
P6 (11c or 12b, 15m): Climb easily if a bit awkwardly up the corner, clip a bolt below the roof, and do a very stretched out, tenuous move to the arete. Pull around the corner to another bolt and do the hero finish up the face to the top of the wall. The grade of this pitch depends greatly on your wingspan.
From the rim, walk up and climber's right to the 2nd Peak Trail.
Note: This description begins on the tree ledge one pitch above South Gully. This pitch is described as the start of Gravity Bong/Unbearable. It is 10+/11- and often wet, making it fun in a different kind of way.
P1 (12-, 35m): Climb the flare/chimney directly above the bolted anchor that arcs wildly left and spits you out onto bolted face climbing. Continue climbing left to a nice, flat pedestal with a bolted belay. Alternatively, you can traverse left and up along the tree ledge and climb the first pitch of Unbearable to the same pedestal.
P2 (11c, 35m): A diverse and totally awesome pitch. Climb a steep seam, past two bolts, that opens to a finger crack, then up an off-width to a stance. Clip a bolt and layback/squeeze the arete to another stance below the Elevator Shaft. Climb the Shaft; it's really fun. Belay at a ledge with two bolts.
P3 (12-, 25m): Very sustained stemming, fingers/tips jams, laybacking, and hip/shoulder scumming up the right-facing corner (the left side of the shaft). At the top of the corner swing right (Unbearable moves left) under the roof, bolt above your head, to a ledge. Jam/layback up the left-facing corner (making sure to save multiple thin fingers-size cams for this section) to some exposed moves to arrive at "Rancho Relaxo," a very nice belay alcove.
P4 (12d, 28m): A mind-blowing overhanging crack. Climb straight up from the alcove, then traverse right around the corner (be gentle on the stump!) past a bolt to a stance on the exact edge of the prow below the splitter that goes on forever. Start with delicate moves on the hairline seam, then power up the steeper fingers and thin hand jams to a ledge rest. Continue up the crack as it narrows back down, eventually moving left and also using the right facing corner crack, ending at a bolted hanging belay below two lines of bolts.
P5 (13a, 15m): The Changing Corners. Layback tenuously up to the sharp arete. Channel your inner Houdini to get around it, and then power up some more very powerful laybacking and crimping that eases off as you move to another spacious ledge and anchor. This pitch is fully bolted (5 total), and it would be highly advantageous to have the draws already hung, especially a long draw/sling on bolt 3. (There is also a line of bolts directly up the round corner directly above the belay that you can use as an aid escape.)
P6 (11c or 12b, 15m): Climb easily if a bit awkwardly up the corner, clip a bolt below the roof, and do a very stretched out, tenuous move to the arete. Pull around the corner to another bolt and do the hero finish up the face to the top of the wall. The grade of this pitch depends greatly on your wingspan.
From the rim, walk up and climber's right to the 2nd Peak Trail.
Location
Teddy Bear's begins at a bolted belay, below the prominent left-arcing flare/chimney, on the large tree ledge one pitch above the top of South Gully. You can get to this ledge from below per the descriptions of Gravity Bong and Unbearable. You can also hike up the 2nd Peak Trail and rappel the route with a 70m rope, which has multiple advantages. If rappelling in, hike the 2nd Peak Trail to above the ladder. Ascend about 100m more to the first very large flat rock (but still below the 2nd Peak summit). Walk northwest across this flat rock, descend slightly through some trees to a bench above the true edge of the Prow Wall. There are a few different sets of bolts; rap off the brown (rusted?) Metolius rap hangers about 2 meters back from the edge.
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