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Routes in The Prow Wall

Cotton Mouth T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fingerbang T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gravity Bong T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Teddy Bear's Picnic T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
UnBearable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Will Stanhope (first continuous ascent)
Page Views: 719 total · 15/month
Shared By: Christopher Barlow on Aug 26, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description

Teddy Bear's Picnic is the original hard route up the Prow Wall, tackling a fairly direct and ridiculously exposed line staying quite close to the actual prow feature from bottom to top. All of the pitches are very good climbing, and the two hardest are truly exceptional as they ascend aesthetic features with diverse, athletic, and difficult movement.

Note: This description begins on the tree ledge one pitch above South Gully. This pitch is described as the start of Gravity Bong/Unbearable. It is 10+/11- and often wet, making it fun in a different kind of way.

P1 (12-, 35m): Climb the flare/chimney directly above the bolted anchor that arcs wildly left and spits you out onto bolted face climbing. Continue climbing left to a nice, flat pedestal with a bolted belay. Alternatively, you can traverse left and up along the tree ledge and climb the first pitch of Unbearable to the same pedestal.

P2 (11c, 35m): A diverse and totally awesome pitch. Climb a steep seam, past two bolts, that opens to a finger crack, then up an off-width to a stance. Clip a bolt and layback/squeeze the arete to another stance below the Elevator Shaft. Climb the Shaft; it's really fun. Belay at a ledge with two bolts.

P3 (12-, 25m): Very sustained stemming, fingers/tips jams, laybacking, and hip/shoulder scumming up the right-facing corner (the left side of the shaft). At the top of the corner swing right (Unbearable moves left) under the roof, bolt above your head, to a ledge. Jam/layback up the left-facing corner (making sure to save multiple thin fingers-size cams for this section) to some exposed moves to arrive at "Rancho Relaxo," a very nice belay alcove.

P4 (12d, 28m): A mind-blowing overhanging crack. Climb straight up from the alcove, then traverse right around the corner (be gentle on the stump!) past a bolt to a stance on the exact edge of the prow below the splitter that goes on forever. Start with delicate moves on the hairline seam, then power up the steeper fingers and thin hand jams to a ledge rest. Continue up the crack as it narrows back down, eventually moving left and also using the right facing corner crack, ending at a bolted hanging belay below two lines of bolts.

P5 (13a, 15m): The Changing Corners. Layback tenuously up to the sharp arete. Channel your inner Houdini to get around it, and then power up some more very powerful laybacking and crimping that eases off as you move to another spacious ledge and anchor. This pitch is fully bolted (5 total), and it would be highly advantageous to have the draws already hung, especially a long draw/sling on bolt 3. (There is also a line of bolts directly up the round corner directly above the belay that you can use as an aid escape.)

P6 (11c or 12b, 15m): Climb easily if a bit awkwardly up the corner, clip a bolt below the roof, and do a very stretched out, tenuous move to the arete. Pull around the corner to another bolt and do the hero finish up the face to the top of the wall. The grade of this pitch depends greatly on your wingspan.

From the rim, walk up and climber's right to the 2nd Peak Trail.

Location

Teddy Bear's begins at a bolted belay, below the prominent left-arcing flare/chimney, on the large tree ledge one pitch above the top of South Gully. You can get to this ledge from below per the descriptions of Gravity Bong and Unbearable. You can also hike up the 2nd Peak Trail and rappel the route with a 70m rope, which has multiple advantages. If rappelling in, hike the 2nd Peak Trail to above the ladder. Ascend about 100m more to the first very large flat rock (but still below the 2nd Peak summit). Walk northwest across this flat rock, descend slightly through some trees to a bench above the true edge of the Prow Wall. There are a few different sets of bolts; rap off the brown (rusted?) Metolius rap hangers about 2 meters back from the edge.

Protection

A small set of nuts (#4-#11 BD or so) and a double set of cams from a purple Metolius to .75 Camalot, potentially with triples of the yellow Metolius/.4 Camalot, plus a #1, #2, and #3 Camalot.

All of the belays are bolted with rappel rings.

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