Rita Telendos

Rita Telendos picks a line across the vast South Face of Telendos, linking several steeper pitches together with easier climbing in between.  It is well-bolted, on high quality rock (albeit sharp), and makes for a great multi-pitch adventure if you want to get away from the crowds of Kalymnos.  

You'll likely have this route all to yourself, but be careful of the local goats on Telendos.  They are known to wander all across the steep faces on the island, as evidenced by the goat poop even on the most improbable ledges.  On the day that we climbed this route, there were 3 goats atop P3 and P4 who were traversing the wall.  Be careful of goat-induced rock-fall, especially at the start of the route.  

The start of the route is well-marked with paint, and is about 80 meters further left of De Charybde En Cila.

P1 - 5.8.  50 ft.  4 bolts.  Start on a slippery grey slab with positive horizontal pockets.  Walk 30 feet out left to a huge ledge and belay from a 2-bolt anchor.

P2 - 5.9.  70 ft.  7 bolts.  A short pitch to a good ledge.  This pitch can easily be combined with the previous if you are mindful of rope-drag. 

P3 - 5.10a.  90 ft.  13 bolts.  Climb straight up on the steepening wall with thin moves over small bulges.

P4 - 5.9.  80 ft.  8 bolts.  Continue on easier broken terrain to a ledge with a large boulder on the right.  Straight above the boulder, the series of bolts continues for a brief steep section before it eases up again.  This pitch can easily be combined with Pitch 3.  

P5 - 5.10a.  70 ft.  8 bolts.  Continue above, passing a layback crack to a grassy ledge below the looming overhang above.

P6 - 5.10b.  60 ft.  10 bolts.  The crux pitch starts with an easy slab section, then follows a steeper roof with sharp, "cauliflower/broccoli" limestone through big holds over the lip.  This is an excellent pitch with wild stemming and large jugs in a heroic position over the Aegean Sea.  This pitch ends in the only hanging belay on the whole route.  If you have enough long quickdraws, consider linking this with the final pitch.  

P7 - 5.9 60 ft.  10 bolts.  Trend up and left from the hanging belay station.  Follow large jugs/chickenheads to the glorious belay on the summit plateau.  

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This route was named in honor of Rita Telendos, the owner of the restaurant that sits on the jetty right as you get dropped off in Telendos.  Her husband, Iannis, was an avid local Telendian climber who was part of the first-ascent party for this route.  In addition, he was a friend to many and greeted climbers arriving to the island.  For folks that knew Iannis, he was one of a handful of local climbers who regularly explored the local crags, developed routes, and was all-in-all a beloved member of the community.  Unfortunately, Iannis passed away in 2020.  There is a beautiful memorial altar/collage for Iannis at Rita Telendos restaurant that is worth checking out.  

This route is on the South Face of Telendos Island, West of the Titan Towers/Inspiration, but due East of the Crescendo Cave.  

13 quickdraws, including some with longer alpine-style slings to extend. A 60 meter rope is plenty to link pitches as well as rappel in case of an emergency.  Every pitch on this route is well-bolted with double-bolt anchors and high-quality stainless steel hardware.  Stronger teams can consider skipping/back-cleaning quickdraws to save on weight.