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Routes in Multipitch routes

Eterna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild Country S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wings for Life S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 11 pitches
FA: F. Haden, G. Jenkin, 2014
Page Views: 99 total, 14/month
Shared By: Hans on Apr 19, 2017
Admins: WAGbag, Luke Bertelsen, Jason Halladay

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Description

Eterna is a fun 11 pitch route on the South face of Telendos. Though arguably not as good as the single pitch climbing on Kalymnos, Eterna is nevertheless an enjoyable and adventurous climb and is well worth doing. The best pitches are near the top where the rock is steeper.

A ledge on the fourth pitch is shared with the route Wild Country, and it can be easy to go wrong here. From here, Eterna goes roughly straight up while Wild Country goes left.

It's possible to rappel the route with a 70m rope, but this is not recommended partly because the rock is sharp and I suspect it is easy to get the rappel rope stuck, but more so because the walk off is so enjoyable.

Traverse across the top of the relatively flat island to its northwest side and locate a trail that leads steeply down to the north coast, passing a unique and tiny church along the way. Follow the trail along the coast back to the little town and a well earned beer or glass of wine.

Location

Approach as for Wild Country, Wings of Life, etc. by following a path along the south coast of Telendos from the town. Locate the massive cave of Crescendo (see photo). Eterna climbs the wall on the left side of the cave, and begins immediately right of the route Wild Country.

Protection

Fully equipped with bolts, only draws are needed. Bring a number of extendible draws to prevent rope drag.

Photos

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