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Routes in Multipitch routes

Eterna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild Country S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wings for Life S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 870 ft, 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: Peter Keller, Urs Odermatt 5-10
Page Views: 1,401 total, 18/month
Shared By: Ken H on Aug 28, 2011
Admins: WAGbag, Luke Bertelsen, Jason Halladay

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6 Opinions

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Description

Pitches are as follow
Pitch 1 30 m 5a Easy slab (skip bolts to link) Double bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 30 m 5a Easy slab to nice belay ledge Double bolt anchor.
Pitch 3 30 m 6a Move up and right on some balancy moves on a little bit of sharp rock. Double bolt anchor.
Pitch 4 30 m 5c Move up and left on easy slab. Double bolt anchor.
Pitch 5 30 m 5c Varied climbing up to a double bolt anchor.
Pitch 6 30 m 6a+ Move right from the anchor to some reach moves to the right and a few tough pulls on thin sharp rock. Double bolt anchor.
Pitch 7 30 m 6a Head up on more grey rock. Double bolt anchor.
Pitch 8 30 m 5b Easy climbing leads to the base of a sort of dihedral formation. Double bolt anchor.
Pitch 9 30 m 5c Climb the awesome slightly overhung rock with amazing exposure on big holds to the top. Double bolt anchor.

Location

Located between Crystal Cave and Crescendo sectors. At about 30 minutes from the goat gate locate Crescendo and hike up to the base of the buttress coming down its left side. Hike up next to the buttress until you locate the route.

Don't forget a photo as a lot of the coast looks similar.

To descend walk off down the North side. From the top of the route walk North to a saddle above the cliff band forming the North Face. From here hike right (East) above the cliff until you locate a carined trail leading down a vegetated slope. As you descend watch for a small white church on the ridge line as you will need to follow the trail to this church. From the church a nice trail leads to the shoreline and then head right down the shoreline back to the town of Telendos.

Protection

Well protected with bolts with bolted belays

I recommend you take a few extendable draws and skip some bolts to link pitches 1&2, 3&4, 5&6, 8&9
karen roseme  
 
We linked 1 and 2, also, 3 and 4 not clipping any of the middle bolts.
The place you could go on the other route is the top of the 3rd pitch not the 4th.
We linked 6 and 7 as well.
It took us less than 2 hours to climb the route.
It is worth it to hike to the summit of Telendos.
There are great view up there! Oct 13, 2017
Hans
Squamish, BC
Hans   Squamish, BC
It's easy in my opinion to go wrong for the 5th pitch. At the ledge at the end of pitch 4, Wild Country goes left while Eterna goes straight up. Apr 19, 2017
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
 
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
 
We linked pitches like the OP did. P4(second half of p2 for us) had loads of rope drag even with many extendable draws and not clipping the mid anchor or 7 other lead bolts. All the other pitches had no noticeable rope drag.
The approach was easy to follow for us and took us exactly one hour. The descent was also easy to follow but took us about two hours of hiking. Climb took us 2hrs, 52min. Apr 30, 2015