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Routes in Multipitch routes

Eterna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Prometheus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild Country S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wings for Life S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 825 ft, 9 pitches
FA: Peter Keller, Urs Odermatt
Page Views: 933 total · 13/month
Shared By: DCSwish23 on Oct 30, 2012
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, Jason Halladay

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

P1 5a 20m
P2 5b 30m
P3 5b 10m
P4 4b 30m
P5 4c 20m
P6 5b 20m
P7 6a 30m
P8 5b 20m
P9 6a 20m
P10 5b 20m
P11 5a 30m

P1-P6 follow the ridge and are generally quite easy (often easier than the grade even). Nearly any combination of pitches can be linked as they are mostly quite short. The route does wander left then back right around around P4 which can add lots of rope drag if linking pitches.
P7 adds more technical climbing and the first 6a move of the route pulling over a small roof. It's more intimidating than technically hard.
P8&9 are more technical climbing which can be linked.
P10&11 the technical climbing eases off as you approach the summit. Holds get sharper as well.

Location

Just right of Crescendo. Hike up as for Crescendo, but stop a begin climbing up the ridge on the right at the first opportunity.

Decent:
Follow same decent as Wild Country. Head north, follow cairns to the white church, then path down and back around to Telendos.

Protection

The climb is well bolted with bolted anchors. Most belay stations are comfortable with the exception of hanging belays at the tops of P6, P8, P9, and P10.

If linking or simulclimbing slings or long draws are highly recommended to reduce rope drag. Skipping bolts also helps a lot too.

Photos

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ericcr
 
ericcr  
 
mid-size day. the climbing is very easy except for a handful of moves. the approach is straightforward, especially if you charter a boat to the coast near the base (probably worth it.) the descent is also easy from a route-finding standpoint, although very long.

maybe not why you come to kalymnos, but if you're looking to get way off the ground and have a good view, well worth it. Nov 8, 2013
in the high season, boats leave almost every half hour from 0700 on every day to the South Face. Very convenient connections and the boatmen are very accommodating. The multipitch routes deservedly are becoming super popular. Nov 5, 2016
jason taro
Seattle, WA
 
jason taro   Seattle, WA
 
Went to the Myrtes Porta and paid the "ferry" an 10 euros to drop us off near the Crescendo cave. Maybe a 20 minute approach from the beach and not too hard to find the first bolts. If you hike from the Telendos port, the route shouldn't be hard to get too, Crescendo is a gigantic and obvious cave that will be seen from any view of the south face. This route is fantastic and has a variety of easy climbing with a couple crux sections. In mid april, we were the only people climbing on the south face. Toping out was gorgeous. To descend, head north (not east to the islands true summit) following cairns. Eventually there'll be a light climbers trail down to the church and then a clear trail to the port. I was worried about ferries back to Kalymnos but we walked up to the port exhausted and eager to get some dinner and there were two boats eager to take us back. May 9, 2017
DrV
DrV  
Route seems to have been re-bolted as of May 2018. I highly recommend organizing a boat to the south side as stated in the other comments. Your other option is to take a regular ferry to Telendos town. You'll see a sign for Wings for Life directing you to a path out of town. Pass through a gate and hike along the coast following blue and yellow markers. The hike will stay close to the coast for about an hour. when you're in front of crescendo cave turn towards the cliff and hike up following the blazes. Total hike takes about 1:30. It takes about 3:30 to do the actual climbing. Be sure to start the climb as early as possible. When the sun hits the wall it gets very hot. Be sure to bring plenty of water. The descent is marked by cairns and paint blazes and took us about 2:15 under the blazing sun. May 21, 2018

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