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It Takes an Ankle
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.7 from 21
votes
Routes in Acorn Face/Squirrel Wall
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Ghost Buddy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ghost Buddy (P1) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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It Takes an Ankle S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lost and Found S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Miasma S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pet the Rabbits S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Radiant Sky S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Water From An Ancient Well S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 42.07051, -73.06693 |
| FA: | Shawn Sweeney 2020 |
| Page Views: | 1,006 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Shawn S on Oct 15, 2021 |
| Admins: | sara mcfadden, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M |
Access Issue: Endangered Species
Details
Most of the 14-acre property at Hanging Mountain has been designated as Priority Habitat by MassWildlife’s Natural Heritage & Endangered Species Program (NHESP). As a result, Hanging Mountain and any work performed there is heavily regulated to ensure that the WMCC is in compliance with the Massachusetts Endangered Species Act and Wetlands Protection Act.
More information about NHESP can be found here
Description
It Takes an Ankle goes straight up the center of the acorn face. 3 bolts of awkward climbing lead up to a ledge. From the ledge, punch up a crimpy face around a mini-shield to a horizontal ledge - this is the crux for most. The crimpy face rounds out to some delicate slab stances up top for a few more bolts. This route shares anchors with Radiant Sky.
Keep a tight belay for the crux B4-B6. There is a good chance of the wall taking your ankle if you blow it hard there. I used a locker on B4 and brought up a skidder pad for the ledge on the FA, since Kat was so light. If it weren't for the ledge, this thing would be deserving of some more stars.
Location
It is to the right of Radiant Sky. This route is often toproped off Radiant Sky's anchors. Give it a lead when you got it dialed in!
There may be a harder entrance to the route right-ish of the bolt line. For the first 3 bolts, you can take relatively direct to the ledge, but it is much smoother to just follow the start of Radiant Sky and clip out right.
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