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Routes in Southwest Corner
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Afterburn (Burn Variation) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Burn (Escape Variation), The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Burn - Variation: Traverse Pitch, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Burn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Con Man, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Dirty Hairy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ecstasy Junior T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Gert's Grungy Gulley T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Moonshine T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Mr. No Wrench T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Roof Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Upper Burn (Burn variation) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Upper Burn to Ecstasy Junior (Burn Variation) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Howard Doyle, Eric Janoscrat, Paul Anikis |
| Page Views: | 318 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Andy Weinmann on Jul 16, 2021 |
| Admins: | Andy Weinmann, Pat Goodman |
Description
From the right side of the ledge, climb the face up to the small overhang. Work up the weakness at a small tree and gain a small stance. Up to this point you need to have plugged in whatever gear you might've been able to get because there's nothing for awhile. Climb the steep and sustained slab above, using the two shallow cracks/runnels to the second overhang. Pull the overhang to a great stance and gear placements. Climb the flake and final overhang above, using some large, positive sloper holds at the top.
At the top, you'll find a good ledge where EJ Veggie Variation tops out to your right and the big orange overhangs of the old Hemlock Grove are to your left. You can sort out a decent belay here. Walk off left and find the top of the Stairmaster.
Serious props to Doyle and Co for doing this one. The face climbing just doesn't let up until you get to the overhang.
You can rig a TR on this one from the ledge up above. Hike up the Stairmaster to the Hemlock Grove and access the ledge. Rig the anchor just a bit left of where EJ Veggie Variation comes up. Take a grill brush as it probably needs a scrubbing.
Location
On a ledge at the end of the 2nd pitch of Gert's Grungy Gulley. There is a good size tree here for a belay. The obvious right-facing corner of Dirty Harry/Magnum Force is to the right. Straight overhead you'll see a big flake stuck in an overhang above a steep face with what looks like good cracks in it (they aren't...basically shallow runnels).
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