Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: Mike Cote, Mike Artz 1986
Page Views: 91 total · 30/month
Shared By: Will Alford on Mar 27, 2019
Admins: Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Description

Thin holds and sparse gear. The climb starts just right of the vegetated ramp below Ecstasy Jr. and directly below the bolt on Sunshine. Climb straight up towards the bolt, through small edges and side pulls. The route joins Sunshine a little bit below the bolt.  Climb the rest of Sunshine to finish. The guide book rates it 5.11d R/X. The moves are strenuous and the little gear you get can be tricky to place.  Usually done as a top rope, but a fun and spicy lead.

Location

Located just right of the vegetated ramp below Ecstasy Jr. And just left of Sunshine and the Burn. The route starts directly below the bolt on Sunshine

Protection

One bolt. Micro stoppers, and micro cams are key. A .2 x4 cam, BD #3 micro stopper and a BD #8 stopper are crucial to cutting down the runout through the crux.

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