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North East Headwall Variation
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British X
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Mt. Slesse
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Bamboozled Buttress T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Beached Az T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack Of Noon Club T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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East Buttress (Stoddard/Mullen) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 PG13 |
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East Face (Easton/Edgar) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3+ R |
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East Face Indirect T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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East Pillar Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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East Pillar of Labor Day Horn (Neufeld/Brayshaw) T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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East Pillar of Labour Day Horn (Laing/Spagnut) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flight 810 Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fraser Ribber T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Labour Day Buttress of Labour Day Horn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Navigator Wall T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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North East Headwall Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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North Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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North Rib (Kiesel/Lowe) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Northeast Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Northwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Real McKim, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Russian Roulette T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Slesse Group Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Easy Snow |
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Southeast Buttress of the South Peak T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Southwest Gully T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Station D Peak North Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Welcome to the Wack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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West Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), 16 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.0255, -121.5974 |
| FA: | U Hawthorn ,J Valecko |
| Page Views: | 555 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | John Valecko on Jul 1, 2021 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
A misguided 6 pitch variation to the north east buttress. Climb the buttress to bivy ledge, scramble up the 4th class to the next section of 5th class climbing. Instead of staying on the buttress proper, traverse hard right for a pitch along a very rotten ramp feature to gain belay ledge, very suspect rock and terrible gear. From here climb carefully straight up face aiming for a corner system a few pitches up and right, rock is sometimes ok, usually bad. Eventually after a couple of pitches you will gain a very fun splitter finger to hands crack which leads to a good belay stance below the obvious corner feature. Take this corner to the summit.
Climbing is consistent in the 5.10 range, the x rating comes from the rock quality for gear. The first traverse pitch is just horrid, the face pitches aren’t great either. Be wary of your placements.
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