Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 3 pitches
FA: FRA 1927 Stan Henderson, Mills Winram, Fred Parkes
Page Views: 247 total · 20/month
Shared By: Dru B. on Sep 13, 2020
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

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From the base of the summit tower's west face, climb into the gully heading up and left towards the notch between Fraser Tower and the main summit (top of the North Couloir). Climb out of the gully on the right wall and traverse southwards across ledges below the west face, with a couple short 5.5 sections, to reach the major gully dropping from Slesse's south ridge, marked by a prominent gendarme on its right (southern) flank. Climb up this gully (4th or low 5th class) to near its top. Now climb a 30m+ pitch of 5.6, steep and juggy with good holds, to reach the south end of the summit. Traverse across the summit ridge to the highest point on the north end.

Reverse the route to descend. Make sure you scramble out of the gully at the same spot you got into it.


From Slesse Creek road, follow the very steep climber's trail to treeline and traverse meadowed slopes. The best bivy location with water for snowmelt is about 700 m (2000 feet) in elevation below the start of the climbing.


Standard rack to 3" (1 set of nuts, and cams from wide fingers up) is sufficient