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Southwest Gully
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Mt. Slesse
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Bamboozled Buttress T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Beached Az T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack Of Noon Club T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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East Buttress (Stoddard/Mullen) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 PG13 |
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East Face (Easton/Edgar) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3+ R |
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East Face Indirect T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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East Pillar Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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East Pillar of Labor Day Horn (Neufeld/Brayshaw) T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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East Pillar of Labour Day Horn (Laing/Spagnut) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flight 810 Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fraser Ribber T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Labour Day Buttress of Labour Day Horn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Navigator Wall T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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North East Headwall Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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North Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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North Rib (Kiesel/Lowe) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Northeast Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Northwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Real McKim, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Russian Roulette T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Slesse Group Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Easy Snow |
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Southeast Buttress of the South Peak T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Southwest Gully T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Station D Peak North Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Welcome to the Wack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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West Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | FRA 1927 Stan Henderson, Mills Winram, Fred Parkes |
| Page Views: | 800 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Drew Brayshaw on Sep 13, 2020 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
From the base of the summit tower's west face, climb into the gully heading up and left towards the notch between Fraser Tower and the main summit (top of the North Couloir). Climb out of the gully on the right wall and traverse southwards across ledges below the west face, with a couple short 5.5 sections, to reach the major gully dropping from Slesse's south ridge, marked by a prominent gendarme on its right (southern) flank. Climb up this gully (4th or low 5th class) to near its top. Now climb a 30m+ pitch of 5.6, steep and juggy with good holds, to reach the south end of the summit. Traverse across the summit ridge to the highest point on the north end.
Reverse the route to descend. Make sure you scramble out of the gully at the same spot you got into it.
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