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Flight 810 Buttress
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Mt. Slesse
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Bamboozled Buttress T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Beached Az T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack Of Noon Club T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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East Buttress (Stoddard/Mullen) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 PG13 |
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East Face (Easton/Edgar) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3+ R |
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East Face Indirect T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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East Pillar Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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East Pillar of Labor Day Horn (Neufeld/Brayshaw) T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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East Pillar of Labour Day Horn (Laing/Spagnut) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flight 810 Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fraser Ribber T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Labour Day Buttress of Labour Day Horn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Navigator Wall T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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North East Headwall Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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North Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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North Rib (Kiesel/Lowe) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Northeast Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Northwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Real McKim, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Russian Roulette T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Slesse Group Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Easy Snow |
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Southeast Buttress of the South Peak T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Southwest Gully T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Station D Peak North Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Welcome to the Wack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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West Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), 14 pitches |
| FA: | First 6 pitches: Drew Brayshaw, Ray Borbon 2002. To the top: Drew Brayshaw, Fern Webb 2003. |
| Page Views: | 611 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Drew Brayshaw on Sep 13, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
This is the east buttress of the third summit. Trans Canada Flight 810 hit the third peak just below the summit in December 1956, killing all on board. The crash wasn't found until May of 1957.
The first six pitches were climbed in 2002. Ramble up slabs and walls for three to four pitches. The crux 5.9 pitch has poor pro and climbs leftward across a blank dihedral from its right wall to its left wall on small holds. One more pitch from this point reaches the Kubik-Soet terrace, where a retreat due to time was made into the Southeast Spur Couloir to the left.
The 2003 route climbed the Kubik-Soet line (one pitch of 5.8 up a corner) to gain the same terrace, then continued directly up the buttress crest (seven pitches of up to 5.8, one wide crack) to reach the "Crown of Gendarmes", four pointy towers forming a subsidiary summit east of the main third peak. A 50 m rappel into the notch behind these towers is followed by scrambling up grassy ledges and blocky face to the base of the main summit tower. A final pitch of mid-5th reaches the infrequently visited summit of the third peak.
To descend, either traverse the west side of the massif to the normal descent routes, or descend the Southeast Spur Couloir between 3rd and 4th peak. Depending on snow levels this can range from a continuous downclimb on snow, to rappels on polished rock. On the FA, the descent involved 10 rappels, mostly from pitons and nuts, right of the snow to avoid full-length crevasses that split the couloir. The anchors were not ideal for rappelling and one piton pulled out under load. Downclimbing the snow would be a safer option if conditions permit.
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