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Routes in West Face
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Arrested Development T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Beth Priestley Memorial Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1 |
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Boulder Problem in the Sky T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Calamine Corner T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Climbswell Butterflakes S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cruel Sea S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Dragon Does Not Serve, The S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dreadful Wind and Rain, The S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Drill's Thrill S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Durin's Bane S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Garden Party T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hard Times T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hazy Daze T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Heretic's Highway T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1 |
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I Never Said I was Brave T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Iron Cross (aka On the Move) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Kingpin T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Labyrinth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lay Lady Lay T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moondog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Piece of Cake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ragtime T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ramblin Rose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rip City T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scarlet's Begonia S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Secure Attachment S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Separation Anxiety T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ship of Fools S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Sick and Tired T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Slow Train S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sweet Jane S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Synchronicity aka The Evil Ivy T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Talk'n'LawyerKillerBluez T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a C1 |
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Time Bandits T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Tourist Attraction S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tourist Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Valar Morghulis S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Waters Edge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Jeff Thomas & Bill Coe, 2018 |
| Page Views: | 509 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Adam Baylor on Mar 28, 2021 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces (NW & W Faces Remain Open)
Details
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
The NW face and West face routes remain open.
See Closure section below for more details.
Description
This pitch is off the ground and can be accessed via the Kingpin/Butterflakes anchor … one crux is getting into the first crack, but good pro off the belay protects any fall. The second crack system above and to the left has may sequences that can be confusing at first and is really the crux of the pitch. Gaston moves help enter the 2nd crack system and finger locks, smears and mantle should help as well. You can place cams and nuts til you reach a bolt above the final crack moves.
Location
Belay at the shared anchors with chains - the top of Butterflakes/Kingpin. Climb far left from the anchor into a short crack system that takes good pro 1-2 inch cams. Continue left over broken terrain until you see another crack. Place good pro early and climb the crack system to a mantle move up to a bolt. Climb right and join the anchors that merge with Separation Anxiety and Hazy Daze under the tiny alcove. With a 70m rope you can lower back to anchor.
FYI - There’s a 5.10+ variation (Piece of Cake) after the lone Garden Party bolt continue up the arete ...
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