Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Oct 27, 2018, Topher Dabrowski, Adam Baylor
Page Views: 270 total · 21/month
Shared By: Topher Dabrowski on Oct 27, 2018 with improvements by Adam Baylor
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

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Description

From the belay stance at the top of King Pin, traverse horizontally climber's right passing Slow Train's two bolt belay station. Continue traversing right and up 10-15' to reach a second 2 bolt anchor, belay here.

Climb straight up from the anchor through double cracks to a shallow roof. Step over the roof following a crack to a good stance below an arete. Step right and ascend the thin crack on to the face. At the first bolt move left and climb the arete past two more bolts to the anchors.

The upper bolted section of this line is shared with the route "Waters Edge".

Behind the route name - a few years back a group of 3 climbers, who shall remain unnamed for now, were exploring the west face of Beacon for route potential. This was during the South Face closure period which they felt did not include the west face area. The park rangers however, interpreted the situation differently and after spotting the climbers up one pitch, called out over a bull horn for the climbing to cease and the climbers to return to the ground. A bit of shenanigans ensued and one of the climbers was caught and arrested. After showing up for his day with the judge his was granted leniency and fortunately climbers now have access to the west face year round.

Location

This route starts from the first ledge up the West Face. Ascend King Pin or another route to reach the start. 

Protection

Camalot Sizes 0.1-0.5
Full Set of Nuts
12 Runners or Quick Draws

70m rope required if rappelling or lowering of the top anchors.

60m rope is sufficient if climbing out.

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