Type: Trad, 115 ft (35 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 666 total · 13/month
Shared By: Andy Casler on Jan 13, 2021
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Permits Required to Climb on City of Meriden, CT properties. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Beautiful rock, great holds, and fantastic sustained movement. A testament to the high quality climbing at East Peak.

Scramble up blocky ledges near a small elm tree. Follow face holds to reach your first piece of protection at about 30' (5.10- X). Climb higher, eventually reaching a wide horizontal crack that spans the cliff face. Carefully peer into the crack, seeing if the monster rat snake has returned home that day.

Rest and then pull above the roof at a left-facing corner, questing into the action packed cruxes above. Follow an incipient rounded crack, sloping hand holds, and virtually non-existent footholds up and then move left, (crux, 5.12d R if placing gear on lead) eventually reaching a rest stance. Good protection is available here, but the gear is very specific, somewhat finicky, and it's strenuous to place.

Continue above, following an interesting variety of holds near a jagged crack, and enjoy sustained pumpy climbing. Crank higher into the delicate and powerful redpoint crux - slapping for holds right at the top of the cliff.

Location Suggest change

Starts on the face that's right of the Trial and Triumph dihedral, and left of Falling Star and Reflections of Fall.   

Climb the deceptively steep face and an incipient crack system.

Protection Suggest change

Unobvious, somewhat finicky, and extremely specific. Mico cams, cams, offset cams, and nuts.

The FA lead was done headpoint style. Climber rehearsed the route on toprope and then placed all his gear on lead.

It's possible to take much of the danger out of this route by stick clipping the first piece, pre-placing protection on rappel, and then using one preplaced 2' sling and one 4' sling to allow clips before crux sequences (the style that I used).

Photos

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