Time Machine
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Type: | Sport, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Sept 12, 2019 |
Page Views: | 3,929 total · 72/month |
Shared By: | Henrik Khin on Sep 16, 2020 · Updates |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Time Machine - 5.10b/c - 6 pitch - Sport
Hunter Lee and Henrik Hinkkala established a new 6 pitch sport alpine climb on the Beehive Wall/West Ridge. When you finish the climb you can either rapp the route or continue up or down the West ridge. This route is fully bolted with rapp rings/stations that accommodate either 70m or 60m ropes.
This sport route climbs almost straight up this wall as seen when coming out of the trees at the top of the climbers trail. The route combines face climbing with a fun gymnastic overhanging crux pitch. Description is as below.
Time Machine: 6 pitch, 5.10C, 160 Meters
After leaving the forest atop the climbers trail approach the route via the vegetated ledge that's a short hike up the hill.
P1- 45 Meters, 5.9, 13 Bolts
Pitch 1 joins the Beeline route for 3 bolts clip the intermediate rappel station as a bolt and continue up the steep wall above until the angle eases off below the anchor.
P2- 35 Meters, 5.9, 9 Bolts
Pitch 2 takes you straight up towards the overhanging roof visible from below.
P3- 25 Meters, 5.10b/c, 12 Bolts
Pitch 3 (the business pitch) rambles into a steep and at times overhanging layback crack. Once the jugs peter out climb thru the roof and start the balance traverse up and to the left until you arrive at the ledge belay.
P4- 20 Meters, 5.8, 8 Bolts
Pitch 4 leads you into a steep 5.8 chimney with belay shortly above as angle eases.
P5- 15 Meters, 5.10a, 7 Bolts
Pitch 5 starts off on slightly easier terrain but as you approach the headwall the terrain steepens for a few fun 10a moves (Pitch 5 and 6 can be easily linked, Be sure to bring some alpine draws, 4-5, for extending ).
P6- 20 Meters, 5.6, 5 Bolts
Above the head-wall the 6'th pitch climbs the short 5.6 prow and continues to the final bolted anchors high atop the wall.
We've attempted to bolt this in order to reduce rope drag, but it's an alpine route and they all wander.
With a 70m you can rapp and combine pitch 4/5 and also rapp pitch 1 with a 15ft easy downclimb to ledge, if desired.
Enjoy! It's a fun one!
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