All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Vancouver Island > Mt Arrowsmith
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 360 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Hunter Lee and Steve Janes April 28th 2017|
|Page Views:||90 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Steve Janes on Apr 29, 2017|
The first belay was manky (belay does get protected with good rock pro about 6ft up and right of belay) and could use some bolts, besides that the rock gear on route was actually fairly decent for the area. I led the first pitch, through a steep, but short ice step, followed by run out snow and mixed terrain up and into the depths of the cleft. The initial ice step is protected well in the rock on the right of the ice. Once into the cleft and below the crux a small but solid crack made a bomber rock belay. Hunter led the second pitch (crux). Difficulties begin right away with steep, thin, and hollow ice over featureless slab, thankfully the rock on the right hand side of the cleft took solid rock pro, and allowed for some good stemming on rock and decent rests. After pulling through the ice crux the terrain eases off and more rambling snow and ice take you to a possible cornice finish (The Cornice had thankfully collapsed before our FA). Once over the cornice, a few different bomber cracks in a small overhanging roof provide a belay.
Standard Mixed Rack: 10cm and 13cm ice screws x6, handful of tri-cams (brown sees a lot of use on this wall) set of nuts with some doubles in smaller sizes (second belay was x3 #7 DMM Offset nuts), cams to 3" (we could have used a blue camalot several times), a few hex's, pitons (knifeblades, Bulldogs and a baby angle maybe)