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Elevation: 1,432 ft 436 m
GPS: 49.0018, -124.2389
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Shared By: ihategrigris on Mar 20, 2007
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

Description Suggest change

Climbing on Van Isle is often overshadowed by British Columbia's destination areas. Yet Vancouver Island offers something for everyone; from crazy overhung limestone sport in Horne Lake, to the glaciated peaks of the Vancouver Island mountains, to the remote granite domes of the Wapiti Valley. Vancouver Island is home to British Columbia's longest sport route (13 pitches) and home to Canada's second 5.14a.

Geologically, Vancouver Island is an interesting mix. The vast majority of rock on the island is bassalt; its quality is fairly hit or miss (but definitely better than the Canadian Rockies!). On the central island, around Nanaimo, there's lots of conglomerate and sandstone. There are a few patches of limestone, especially around Strathcona park and granite all over the northern island.

Most climbing is located on public land, however several areas currently are experiencing access issues. These include Horne Lake, Sugarloaf, as well as a number of areas around Nanaimo.

Getting There Suggest change

Vancouver Island can be reached by car ferry from Vancouver, BC, Port Angeles, WA, and Anacortes, WA. Passenger only ferries run from Bellingham and Seattle. Vancouver Island also has three major airports: Victoria, Nanaimo and Comox. There are daily direct flights to Vancouver, Seattle, Calgary, Edmonton and Toronto; as well as connecting flights to the rest of the world.

441 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Vancouver Island

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3 M3
 6
Newman-Foweraker Route
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
Electric Doughnut
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Flash Forward
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
Broken Wing
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 11
Learning to Fly
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Aerie
Sport 3 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Time Machine
Sport, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 5
Kandahar
Trad 5 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 16
You Enjoy Myself
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 6
Wapiti Mainline
Sport 13 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
Daddy's Girl
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 22
Quarter Century Girl
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 12
Moonraker
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 6
Smooth Bore
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 6
Jesus Save the Pushers
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Newman-Foweraker Route Mt Arrowsmith
 6
WI3 M3 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Electric Doughnut Victoria > Sugarloaf
 9
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Flash Forward Quadra Island > … > S Peak Crags > Leaning Tree Edge
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Broken Wing Comox Lake > Comox Lake > Raven Wall
 11
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Learning to Fly Comox Lake > Comox Lake > Raven Wall
 11
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Aerie Comox Lake > Comox Lake > Cataracta Wall
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 3 pitches
Time Machine Mt Arrowsmith
 6
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, Alpine 6 pitches
Kandahar Constitution Hill > Laughlan Buttress
 5
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 5 pitches
You Enjoy Myself Horne Lake
 16
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Wapiti Mainline Nomash Slab
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Sport 13 pitches
Daddy's Girl Horne Lake
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Quarter Century Girl Horne Lake
 22
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Moonraker Horne Lake
 12
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Smooth Bore Horne Lake
 6
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Jesus Save the Pushers Horne Lake
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Vancouver Island »

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