Elevation: 1,432 ft
GPS: 49.002, -124.239 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 151,485 total · 934/month
Shared By: ihategrigris on Mar 20, 2007
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

Description

Climbing on Van Isle is often overshadowed by British Columbia's destination areas. Yet Vancouver Island offers something for everyone; from crazy overhung limestone sport in Horne Lake, to the glaciated peaks of the Vancouver Island mountains, to the remote granite domes of the Wapiti Valley. Vancouver Island is home to British Columbia's longest sport route (13 pitches) and home to Canada's second 5.14a.

Geologically, Vancouver Island is an interesting mix. The vast majority of rock on the island is bassalt; its quality is fairly hit or miss (but definitely better than the Canadian Rockies!). On the central island, around Nanaimo, there's lots of conglomerate and sandstone. There are a few patches of limestone, especially around Strathcona park and granite all over the northern island.

Most climbing is located on public land, however several areas currently are experiencing access issues. These include Horne Lake, Sugarloaf, as well as a number of areas around Nanaimo.

Getting There

Vancouver Island can be reached by car ferry from Vancouver, BC, Port Angeles, WA, and Anacortes, WA. Passenger only ferries run from Bellingham and Seattle. Vancouver Island also has three major airports: Victoria, Nanaimo and Comox. There are daily direct flights to Vancouver, Seattle, Calgary, Edmonton and Toronto; as well as connecting flights to the rest of the world.

226 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Vancouver Island

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
Birds of Prey
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 6
No Name
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Sunday Snooze
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Electric Doughnut
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Cosmic Debris
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Where's Andy
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
You Enjoy Myself
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Addicted to War
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 3
Wapiti Mainline
Sport 13 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Velvet Elvis
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
Quarter Century Girl
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Moonraker
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
Plastic Jesus
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Code of Honor
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Birds of Prey Quadra Island > … > S Peak Crags > Manzanita Wall
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
No Name Victoria > … > S Cliffs > Cosmic Lights
 6
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Sunday Snooze Victoria > … > S Cliffs > Snooze
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Electric Doughnut Victoria > Sugarloaf
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Cosmic Debris Victoria > … > S Cliffs > Cosmic Lights
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Where's Andy Victoria > … > S Cliffs > Cosmic Lights
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
You Enjoy Myself Horne Lake
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Addicted to War Horne Lake
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Wapiti Mainline Nomash Slab
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Sport 13 pitches
Velvet Elvis Horne Lake
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Quarter Century Girl Horne Lake
 10
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Moonraker Horne Lake
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Plastic Jesus Horne Lake
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Code of Honor Horne Lake
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Vancouver Island »

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