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Time Machine

5.10b/c, Sport, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 3.9 from 8 votes
FA: Sept 12, 2019
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Vancouver Island > Mt Arrowsmith
Warning Access Issue: Mt Arrowsmith is partly private property DetailsDrop down

Time Machine - 5.10b/c - 6 pitch - Sport

Hunter Lee and Henrik Hinkkala established a new 6 pitch sport alpine climb on the Beehive Wall/West Ridge. When you finish the climb you can either rapp the route or continue up or down the West ridge. This route is fully bolted with rapp rings/stations that accommodate either 70m or 60m ropes. 

This sport route climbs almost straight up this wall as seen when coming out of the trees at the top of the climbers trail. The route combines face climbing with a fun gymnastic overhanging crux pitch. Description is as below.

Time Machine: 6 pitch, 5.10C, 160 Meters

After leaving the forest atop the climbers trail approach the route via the vegetated ledge that's a short hike up the hill.

P1- 45 Meters, 5.9, 13 Bolts

Pitch 1 joins the Beeline route for 3 bolts clip the intermediate rappel station as a bolt and continue up the steep wall above until the angle eases off below the anchor.

P2- 35 Meters, 5.9, 9 Bolts

Pitch 2 takes you straight up towards the overhanging roof visible from below.

P3- 25 Meters, 5.10b/c, 12 Bolts 

Pitch 3 (the business pitch) rambles into a steep and at times overhanging layback crack. Once the jugs peter out climb thru the roof and start the balance traverse up and to the left until you arrive at the ledge belay.

P4- 20 Meters, 5.8, 8 Bolts

Pitch 4 leads you into a steep 5.8 chimney with belay shortly above as angle eases. 

P5- 15 Meters, 5.10a, 7 Bolts

Pitch 5 starts off on slightly easier terrain but as you approach the headwall the terrain steepens for a few fun 10a moves (Pitch 5 and 6 can be easily linked, Be sure to bring some alpine draws, 4-5, for extending ).

P6- 20 Meters, 5.6, 5 Bolts

Above the head-wall the 6'th pitch climbs the short 5.6 prow and continues to the final bolted anchors high atop the wall. 

We've attempted to bolt this in order to reduce rope drag, but it's an alpine route and they all wander. 

With a 70m you can rapp and combine pitch 4/5 and also rapp pitch 1 with a 15ft easy downclimb to ledge, if desired.

Enjoy! It's a fun one! 

Location

Route is located on the Beehive Wall/West Ridge as seen on your right as soon as you exit the trees on the climbers trail.

Protection

Bring 13-14 draws (include 4-5 extendable)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Topping out on pitch 1
[Hide Photo] Topping out on pitch 1
Mikayla just finishing the left traverse after the 10c pitch
[Hide Photo] Mikayla just finishing the left traverse after the 10c pitch
Looking up one of the upper pitches.
[Hide Photo] Looking up one of the upper pitches.
Looking up at the soaking wet crux pitch, 5.10b/c.
[Hide Photo] Looking up at the soaking wet crux pitch, 5.10b/c.
Beautiful alpine views of the mountains on climber's left, from the base of the climb.
[Hide Photo] Beautiful alpine views of the mountains on climber's left, from the base of the climb.
Hunter Lee climbing the last moves to the belay ledge on pitch 3 - 10c
[Hide Photo] Hunter Lee climbing the last moves to the belay ledge on pitch 3 - 10c
Photo of Henrik Hinkkala on the steep 3rd Pitch 10c - Uploaded with permission by Hunter Lee
[Hide Photo] Photo of Henrik Hinkkala on the steep 3rd Pitch 10c - Uploaded with permission by Hunter Lee
Time Machine Topo Photo - As seen from top of climbers trail
[Hide Photo] Time Machine Topo Photo - As seen from top of climbers trail
Time Machine/Beehive Wall - Google Earth Topo
[Hide Photo] Time Machine/Beehive Wall - Google Earth Topo

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jordan Lenham
Brit who calls Cedar by the…
 
[Hide Comment] Great route in a fantastic location. Climbers trail brings you to the base of the route to start your adventure.

Every pitch is well boulted and the climbing is of a high quality.

Always feels great to be clipping a line of bolts above 1000m.

We felt that like the 10c pitch was excellent and worth doing just for that pitch.

Big thanks to the route developers for this one. Jun 1, 2023
Robyn Petrik
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] One of my favourite multis to date!

The approach took us about 1:15hr, and the route is truly right there as you exit the forest. It's obvious that this route was developed in recent years because there's plenty of bolts and every pitch feels approachable for the grade.

We wanted to hike off but didn't have the trail info downloaded and we were running out of daylight. Rapping was straightforward, no issues.

I would absolutely climb Time Machine again. Thanks to the developers for such a fun, accessible alpine climb! Oct 11, 2024