Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
GPS: 33.30561, -111.07634
FA: Don O’Kelley, Kent Brock 1970s
Page Views: 904 total · 13/month
Shared By: Sam F on Apr 25, 2020
Admins: Zach Levy, Sierra Blair, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

One of the better crack climbs at Atlantis and will hopefully clean up more. This route is listed as two pitches (5.10c) in Marty’s guide although that doesn’t make a lot of sense to me. If I were to climb to the top I’d do it all in one pitch. The traditional pitch two is short and really easy.

The route starts with some slippery slab moves into the sweet hand crack above. Above that lies a short flakey off-width that felt like the crux to me although this is no 5.10c off-width. Above is a broken roof with big holds. After you pull the roof, continue up a couple of easy moves and traverse right and use the bolted anchor on top of Public Hanging.

Location Suggest change

On the north and left side of the main Atlantis Canyon. Look for the vertical hand crack that widens then has a broken small roof at its top. 

Protection Suggest change

Double cams from BD .3-3, single nuts and 4, optional extra 2-4, optional 5.

Photos

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