Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,286 total · 23/month
Shared By: David Arthur Sampson on Jun 18, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

87 Opinions

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Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details


A classic. A bit exciting getting established on the face above the last bolt; fun stuff! A must do climb.

Start on slick, water polished rock located at an apex of the pool area below the dam; look for a short dihedral near the top of the wall.


Left side of a buttress adjacent (left) to the schizophrenic buttress (photo provide for schozo.).




susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
FA's - Ken Mills & Dave Sobocan '91

p1 - 7 bolts w/shut anchors. p2 - 3 bolts to shuts

You can also rap this route to get down vs. taking the trail. Early 90's there was a serial flasher that "hung" out up there. Apr 19, 2008
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
A single 70m will get you from the top of the 2nd pitch anchors down to the bottom in one rap.

The first pitch is really enjoyable with cool holds, fun bulges, and a some good crimping.

The second pitch to exit Atlantis is a tad spacey in bolting. The rating is 10a or 9? Very short, but it gets more interesting as the last rays of daylight wane. Apr 11, 2010
A somwhat fun route that suffers from some ego-based bolting. This can be helped somewhat by bringing some wires and rp's to supplement the bolts, Apr 15, 2010
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Two stars simply because of the top bolt -- call it mixed and bring some small gear to add, will make it much easier on the mind game. Dec 8, 2010
Nick Schlichtman
Golden, CO
Nick Schlichtman   Golden, CO
Looks like a bolt has been added between the anchors and last bolt (as you come out around the roof into the short dihedral). Feels much less sketchy now than the previous comments are suggesting. Thanks to whoever did it. Nov 14, 2012
I'll second the thanks for the added top bolt on the final move in the dihedral though I usually do the arete finish.

Also, just an FYI, I added the first weld shut bolt some years ago. The actual "first" bolt on the route is now the second.

Fred Nov 24, 2012
Paul Paonessa
Phoenix, AZ
Paul Paonessa   Phoenix, AZ
Toby Wehler
Indianapolis, IN
Toby Wehler   Indianapolis, IN
I can see why this route is popular. Varied climbing the whole way with good holds. Will do the second pitch at some point to 'complete' the route. Thanks for putting in the new anchors! Apr 5, 2014
Anthony Miklas
Phoenix , Arizona
Anthony Miklas   Phoenix , Arizona
fun moderate climb, with bad rock quality Apr 3, 2016