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Routes in Atlantis North Side

All Kings Men S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Armed and Dangerous S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Brush Your Teeth Before You Kiss Me S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Capital Punishment S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cracka ass Cracka T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Feast and Famine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flakes of Wrath S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fluid Dynamics S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
For Some Reason T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Impending Doom S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Neptune S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Phantom S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Public Hanging S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Public Hanging Direct S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Remote Hug Express! V-easy 3
Schizophrenic Boulevard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smokin Guns S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trinity is My Name S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Unknown Dihedral T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unnamed Crack Near Feast & Famine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,925 total · 21/month
Shared By: David Arthur Sampson on Jun 18, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

A classic. A bit exciting getting established on the face above the last bolt; fun stuff! A must do climb.

Start on slick, water polished rock located at an apex of the pool area below the dam; look for a short dihedral near the top of the wall.

Location

Left side of a buttress adjacent (left) to the schizophrenic buttress (photo provide for schozo.).

Protection

bolted

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10
FA's - Ken Mills & Dave Sobocan '91

p1 - 7 bolts w/shut anchors. p2 - 3 bolts to shuts

You can also rap this route to get down vs. taking the trail. Early 90's there was a serial flasher that "hung" out up there. Apr 19, 2008
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
A single 70m will get you from the top of the 2nd pitch anchors down to the bottom in one rap.

The first pitch is really enjoyable with cool holds, fun bulges, and a some good crimping.

The second pitch to exit Atlantis is a tad spacey in bolting. The rating is 10a or 9? Very short, but it gets more interesting as the last rays of daylight wane. Apr 11, 2010
brucy
 
brucy  
 
A somwhat fun route that suffers from some ego-based bolting. This can be helped somewhat by bringing some wires and rp's to supplement the bolts, Apr 15, 2010
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10b
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10b
Two stars simply because of the top bolt -- call it mixed and bring some small gear to add, will make it much easier on the mind game. Dec 8, 2010
Nick Schlichtman
Golden, CO
 
Nick Schlichtman   Golden, CO
 
Looks like a bolt has been added between the anchors and last bolt (as you come out around the roof into the short dihedral). Feels much less sketchy now than the previous comments are suggesting. Thanks to whoever did it. Nov 14, 2012
I'll second the thanks for the added top bolt on the final move in the dihedral though I usually do the arete finish.

Also, just an FYI, I added the first weld shut bolt some years ago. The actual "first" bolt on the route is now the second.

Fred Nov 24, 2012
Paonessa
Phoenix,AZ
Paonessa   Phoenix,AZ
Toby Wehler
Indianapolis, IN
  5.10a
Toby Wehler   Indianapolis, IN
  5.10a
I can see why this route is popular. Varied climbing the whole way with good holds. Will do the second pitch at some point to 'complete' the route. Thanks for putting in the new anchors! Apr 5, 2014
Anthony Miklas
Phoenix , Arizona
  5.9+
Anthony Miklas   Phoenix , Arizona
  5.9+
fun moderate climb, with bad rock quality Apr 3, 2016

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