Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Neptune

5.10a, Sport, 85 ft,  Avg: 3 from 88 votes
FA: unknown
Arizona > Central Arizona > Queen Creek Canyon > Atlantis > Atlantis N Side
Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

A classic. A bit exciting getting established on the face above the last bolt; fun stuff! A must do climb.

Start on slick, water polished rock located at an apex of the pool area below the dam; look for a short dihedral near the top of the wall.

Location

Left side of a buttress adjacent (left) to the schizophrenic buttress (photo provide for schozo.).

Protection

bolted

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Working my way up Neptune
[Hide Photo] Working my way up Neptune
Topend of Neptune
[Hide Photo] Topend of Neptune
Final stem moves near the top--looking down!  So exciting!!!
[Hide Photo] Final stem moves near the top--looking down! So exciting!!!
Andrew working up Neptune
[Hide Photo] Andrew working up Neptune
Neil, my son of 8 climbs as I belay
[Hide Photo] Neil, my son of 8 climbs as I belay

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10
[Hide Comment] FA's - Ken Mills & Dave Sobocan '91

p1 - 7 bolts w/shut anchors. p2 - 3 bolts to shuts

You can also rap this route to get down vs. taking the trail. Early 90's there was a serial flasher that "hung" out up there. Apr 19, 2008
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
[Hide Comment] A single 70m will get you from the top of the 2nd pitch anchors down to the bottom in one rap.

The first pitch is really enjoyable with cool holds, fun bulges, and a some good crimping.

The second pitch to exit Atlantis is a tad spacey in bolting. The rating is 10a or 9? Very short, but it gets more interesting as the last rays of daylight wane. Apr 11, 2010
brucy
 
[Hide Comment] A somwhat fun route that suffers from some ego-based bolting. This can be helped somewhat by bringing some wires and rp's to supplement the bolts, Apr 15, 2010
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Two stars simply because of the top bolt -- call it mixed and bring some small gear to add, will make it much easier on the mind game. Dec 8, 2010
Nick Schlichtman
Golden, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Looks like a bolt has been added between the anchors and last bolt (as you come out around the roof into the short dihedral). Feels much less sketchy now than the previous comments are suggesting. Thanks to whoever did it. Nov 14, 2012
[Hide Comment] I'll second the thanks for the added top bolt on the final move in the dihedral though I usually do the arete finish.

Also, just an FYI, I added the first weld shut bolt some years ago. The actual "first" bolt on the route is now the second.

Fred Nov 24, 2012
Paul Paonessa
Phoenix, AZ
Toby Wehler
Indianapolis, IN
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] I can see why this route is popular. Varied climbing the whole way with good holds. Will do the second pitch at some point to 'complete' the route. Thanks for putting in the new anchors! Apr 5, 2014
Anthony Miklas
Phoenix , Arizona
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] fun moderate climb, with bad rock quality Apr 3, 2016