Type: Trad, Sport, 105 ft
FA: David Dodemaide & Kent Brock (1970s)
Page Views: 1,015 total · 8/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Apr 19, 2009
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

Scramble up to a ledge and optionally clip the first bolt of "Impending Doom". Follow the crack and either step left to hit the anchors of "Impending Doom" or venture further on easier ground. A small tree makes for a natural anchor should the route be followed to completion.

This route lists as a 5.3 in the pocket guide but I would grade it a 5.6. Also be aware that the rappel off the tree may require two ropes -- it would certainly be close. I rapped off the tree to the anchors of "Impending Doom".

Location

Dihedral between "Impending Doom" and "Schizophrenic Blvd" on the creek right. Route #26 in Marty Karabin's "Road Area" (September 2008) pocket guide.

Protection

Large to small pro. Optional bolt and anchors.

Photos

Joshua Jones
San Tan Valley, az
  5.8
Joshua Jones   San Tan Valley, az
  5.8
This climb is totally sandbagged. I would say 5.6 is still too low. I found the climb enjoyable on lead but there were moves that were more difficult than anything on First Born. I would say 5.6/7 trad lead could be sketchy. If you are solid at 5.8 go for it. It is fun, easy to protect and eats gear. You can avoid the double rope rappel by traversing left to the anchors for Neptune. Sep 6, 2013
Phil Sakievich  
  5.8
I totally agree with the previous comment. Climbed "for some reason" and this route both today. For some reason felt at least 1 grade lower than this. Still super fun, but definitely much harder than 5.3. I think 5.8 sounds about right. Jun 27, 2015
hangontightly letgolightly   Unknown
  5.7
Ya, this isn't 5.3. I followed and would put it at 5.7 at least. May 21, 2018