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Routes in Atlantis North Side

All Kings Men S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Armed and Dangerous S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Brush Your Teeth Before You Kiss Me S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Capital Punishment S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cracka ass Cracka T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Feast and Famine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flakes of Wrath S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fluid Dynamics S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
For Some Reason T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Impending Doom S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Neptune S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Phantom S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Public Hanging S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Public Hanging Direct S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Remote Hug Express! V-easy 3
Schizophrenic Boulevard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smokin Guns S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trinity is My Name S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Unknown Dihedral T,S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unnamed Crack Near Feast & Famine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 282 total · 2/month
Shared By: Eric Foster on Mar 2, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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29 Opinions

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Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description [Edit]

Start under a small roof and follow crack to the first bolt, then traverse right onto face to the next bolt on thin face, once past the first bolt get over the face and on to big ledge, the next bolt is up and left, climb up to the bolt with good holds, then traverse left to bulge with crack, it is probly a good idea to place a .4 alien here, because if you fall it is going to be an implesent whipper. Here is some beta, there is a huge, bomber hold over the bulge in the back, once you get that stand on the ledge and clip next bolt, Then climb face past 2 more bolts to chain rappel.

Location [Edit]

When coming into the Atlantis area it will be the first route on your left, look for big bulge with small crack.

Protection [Edit]

5 bolts, chains, .4 alien(optional)

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
FA's - Mark Harris & Jay Clark 3/93 Apr 19, 2008
Jon Richard
St. Louis, Missouri
  5.9 PG13
Jon Richard   St. Louis, Missouri
  5.9 PG13
IMO this is not a safe route. The feature that forms the left side of the crack sounds hollow. I would not have been comfortable at all falling on the cam I placed in the crack. The movement on the route was great and I would have enjoyed it more if that bulge did not sound so hollow.

Anyone agree? Apr 22, 2008
noburu Irvine
Flagstaff
  5.9 R
noburu Irvine   Flagstaff
  5.9 R
One of the more scarier moments in my climbing career...yes, I agree! Aug 23, 2008
My son led this yesterday and I followed on TR. There is a hollow sounding flake about a little more than 2/3 of the way up. I did pull up on the flake and it held. The crack to the right of the bulge is solid. There are plenty of good foot placements, pockets and edges all the way up. I think this route is easier than 5.9, although placing a cam in the crack next to the bulge looked awkward. May 25, 2010
brucy
 
brucy  
 
We thought this to be a stupid and old style route. Bolt spacings are bogus and the idea of putting pro in the crack way out left between bolts 4 and 5- is even "more" bogus! Feb 19, 2011
Mark Mueller
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9 PG13
Mark Mueller   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9 PG13
This route is cool, probably more like a 5.8+ .. Lead without using any cam and I never felt insecure, however, a fall trying to pull that move could be painful. Will repeat. Apr 10, 2013
Edmund Kao  
 
There is definite ground fall potential going for bolts 2 and 3. Falling while going for bolt 4 could result in a long fall onto the slab. Make sure your belayer is standing up and paying attention if you are leading this route. Placing the cam to protect the roof move up to bolt 4 is difficult for shorter climbers, as the best holds are some distance away. Our leader had to swing at it and place the cam dynamically.

I would not lead this route, but if someone with no fear of falling puts a top rope on it, it's a fun climb. Apr 24, 2013
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
I remember getting super scared a few years back on this... I haven't lead it since... yikes! Jul 31, 2013
Toby Wehler
Indianapolis, IN
  5.9 PG13
Toby Wehler   Indianapolis, IN
  5.9 PG13
Sketchiest route I've climbed in Atlantis, though not scary. Was pretty greasy with the sun shining and me sweating. Also some low quality rock. I placed a cam in the left crack more for mental benefit than anything. Worth doing if done most other stuff, but the sun wasn't the only thing making me sweat;) Sep 23, 2014
Nat Kasper  
 
Last Thursday, 1/18, I left a set of quickdraws on "brush your teeth" when a friend had a bad accident and we had to leave for the hospital in a hurry. When I came back to look for them a few days later they were gone.
Please message me if you know what happened to them. I left 5 Grivel Beta Easys and 2 Omegalites at the chains.
Thank you Jan 27, 2018

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