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Routes in Atlantis North Side

All Kings Men S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Armed and Dangerous S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Brush Your Teeth Before You Kiss Me S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Capital Punishment S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cracka ass Cracka T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Feast and Famine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flakes of Wrath S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fluid Dynamics S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
For Some Reason T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Impending Doom S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Neptune S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Phantom S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Public Hanging S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Public Hanging Direct S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Schizophrenic Boulevard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smokin Guns S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trinity is My Name S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Unknown Dihedral T,S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unnamed Crack Near Feast & Famine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Ken Mills, Jimmy Steagall & Eric Hanson '92'
Page Views: 1,258 total · 10/month
Shared By: David Arthur Sampson on Aug 18, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

This climb has two cruxes; pulling the first overhang/ roof and then pulling the second roof.

Awesome climbing on fairly steep rock. Either do the boulder problem start, or by-pass on the right; scramble up the slab to the first overhang/ roof for the first bolt.

Location

The fourth climb on your left as you enter the corridor proper (as I recall- I will look this up)- look for a bulgy overhang ~ one meter off the deck, followed by a slab run to a second overhang/ roof. A second small roof (~60 feet) can be seen from the deck.

Protection

7 bolts to a two shut rap.

Photos

Stephane Fitch
Scottsdale, AZ
  5.11b/c R
Stephane Fitch   Scottsdale, AZ
  5.11b/c R
The second roof on this route is extremely spicy, and you're well above your protection at that point. If you've climbed the route a number of times, maybe it starts to feel like a 5.10d, but seriously, I would rate this a 5.11 b/c if you decide to pull the second roof by working the pockets that lie mostly to the right side of the face under the roof. An alternative way to make this route feel a little less intense (but it's still dangerous, because you're looking at a giant runout) is to go left into the chimney when you get to the second roof. So you end up skipping that bolt and running it out to the penultimate bolt below the anchors. Yes, that makes the climb at 5.10d, but the danger rating jumps to R due to the long runout.

Having said that, it is an exciting climb. Go cautiously, but if you can work this out, it's worth it. And once you have your top rope set up, you can take multiple runs at the crux and maybe get comfortable with it. Jun 13, 2015
brucy
  5.11b
brucy  
  5.11b
We (my partner and I) thought the route as way more difficult then the guide book states- if one straddles the bolts at the upper crux. Also, we thought the protection could have been better placed on the upper crux as well. By chance, two years after our ascent, we overheard a party of two just finishing the route who were mumbling that they thought the route as middle 11 if Public Hanging was 11c and Armed and Dangerous was 11b. Apr 15, 2010
JimmyK
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11a
JimmyK   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11a
More difficult than 10c/d. 1st roof was challanging but well protected. 2nd roof was more challanging and less protected. Jan 24, 2009
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10c
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10c
FA's - Ken Mills, Jimmy Steagall & Eric Hanson '92 Apr 19, 2008