The Quad Crack

Once an obscure aid line, Quadruple Cracks is now free, one of Index hardest gear climbs, and its quality cannot be overstated. In the vanguard, Stamati sent July 1st on a rare & cool breezy evening, which I heard had his belayer Trevor bundled in double layers----while I cheered on in spirit, from a far off family camping destination. Yesterday, Sept 23rd I also free climbed to the quad summit after placing all gear on lead, just before a soaking rain descended on the valley. The grade may settle in the 13+ range for those 6' climbers, but on a personal note, I am convinced it was 14a for me, which would make this my most difficult gear lead, something I'd never imagine I could do at 47 with kids and profession.  But, the greatest joy of this project by far was the sense of mutual support I felt working it with Stamati ...cleaning, the beta mining sessions, figuring out the gear, believing in the gear, and of course the route itself which is perfection.  

Thanks to all the folks whom contributed to the process: Tavish, Nate, Adam, Trevor, Cindy, Monica, Brock, Mark, Hunter and likely other I may have forgot. Huge thanks to Stamati---fellow Quadling. 

Upper left quadrant of The Cheeks. The easiest approach is to climb pitch 1 of Wilman's Walkabout 11+. Move right from the belay 15' and you're there.

cams and nuts. bolted anchors.