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Routes in The Black Sea

A Turtle to Far S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Sea T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dead Mans Reach T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Echolocation S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gods Bones S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Incision, The T A2
Jesters of Chaos T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wilman's Walkabout T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A3
Type: Trad, Aid, 115 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 285 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jacob Smith on Apr 8, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details


Cramer calls it a "lower angle, thinner, City Park." Thinner is the key word there, aside from the first six feet and the last ten, virtually the only solid pieces will be lost arrows and knifeblades.
The climb starts with some semi-mandatory free climbing. If it was clean and dry this would be mostly unprotected 5.9, but you can aid through almost all of it, be careful though, as the right facing corner crack expands a little and decking is a real possibility.
Farther up there are a couple loose blocks and flakes to avoid, being good at high-stepping and cam hooking is helpful, in the absence of these skills, be tall.
Fairly unrelenting thinness leads to a small lip and eventually a gradually easing finish.


Just before the huge block by the Perverse Traverse


Standard aid rack, including specifically -
Single set of cams to .75, doubles of .3-.5
Small offset nuts
Cam hooks
Lost arrows, shorter ones more useful than longer
Knifeblades, all sizes

New anchor bolts were installed in April of 2015, but bring tat because there are no chains and this climb is seldom done.



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