Wilman's Walkabout
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British A3
Type: | Trad, Aid, 220 ft (67 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | SEE BELOW |
Page Views: | 2,174 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Ben Gilkison on Mar 25, 2013 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Wilman's Walkabout is a delightful three pitch route on the left flank of the Cheeks, now all FREE including a new variation on pitch 2, and also the final crux corner pitch 3. The first pitch stays dry in a light rain, quickly dries after, and stays cool on most sunny days till noon. The final corner stays in the shade till 10 or 11am.
Pitch 1: Ascend the large left facing corner clipping 3 bolts before a potent crux on good gear. Mantle up to the ledge (original ending of P1 --can still see the old pin), negotiate past seasonal vegetation, and dance up a knob studded corner, palming and stemming to a final 10' of harder than it looks open book climbing. 5.11+
Pitch 2 variation: Ascend past 1 bolt up the clean featured face to regain the corner. Mantle up onto the sweet 2x2' perch and check out the views, surrounded by steep granite. After clipping another bolt, match a huge sloper and pull over left into another small RFC with an engaging finish, leading up to the Sky Lounge Ledge. 5.11a
Pitch 2 original: stay in the LFC the entire way. Gear looks sketchy up high, hard to place, and it is dirty still despite me scrubbing on it for hours. 10+?
Pitch 3: Ascend the aesthetic corner requiring classic index chicanery. If you're tall it might feel 11d, if short more like 12+. SO GOOD!!!! Memorable finish with backwards facing chimney. 5.12
All anchors are equipped with chains. Rappel the route. 60m rope is sufficient. Or... you can also move right on the Sky Lounge Ledge to climb Mysteries of the Lollipop Guild 11+. From here you can rappel from the Quad Crack anchor and easily TR it with a few directionals.
P1. FFA: Darryl Cramer, Terry Lien, Nicola Masciandaro, Jon Nelson 1987. P2 FFA: Darryl Cramer, Terry Lien, Max Dufford 1987. P2 Variation FFA: Ben Gilkison, Chris Kalman, Dan Kluskiewicz 5/23. P3 FFA: Ben Gilkison, Jeromy Markee, and Eli Chance.
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