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Routes in The Black Sea

A Turtle to Far S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Sea T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dead Mans Reach T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Echolocation S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gods Bones S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Incision, The T A2
Jesters of Chaos T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wilman's Walkabout T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A3
Type: Trad, Aid, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 632 total, 11/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on Mar 25, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Pitch 1 is a thin-corner climb, all free. Has some thin face moves on the lower 1/3 (crux) and some thin finger jamming-laybacking in the upper 1/3. The middle section is a mix of hands and fingers.

This pitch tends to be dry even when nearby routes are wet.

Pitch 2 is all free (5.10).

Pitch 3 is aid.

Location

Midway between Jesters of Chaos and the Perverse Traverse. An obvious, white, left-facing corner.

Protection

For P1, bring thin stoppers (e.g., down to RP #3 or ~3/16" width), some small cams (finger-tip size), one hand-sized cam, and mid-range stoppers. The first third of the pitch has three 3/8"bolts.

Photos

kerwinl
5.11c A3
kerwinl  
5.11c A3
For those that find the 11b rating a bit stiff for P1, Cramers 'Sky Valley Rock' list it as 11c, either way it is not a gimme. Feb 18, 2015
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
Holy cow (re, the link above), including all four feet, one cat had 27 toes!

I should add that I think that for Givler's cat, the seven were just one paw. Mar 25, 2013
C Miller   CA  
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
As the story goes, the route was named after Al Givler's seven-toed cat. Mar 25, 2013