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Routes in Red Wall
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A Short Cool Red One V9 7C |
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Center Left V4 6B |
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East Overhang Left V2 5+ |
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East Overhang Right V3-4 6A+ |
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Eric Varney Direct V5 6C |
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Far Far Right Side V0 4 |
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Far Right Side aka Right Right Side V4 6B |
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Gorilla Traverse V9 7C PG13 |
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Griffith Direct V5 6C |
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Just Another Traverse V11 8A |
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Moffat Direct V8 7B |
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Red Wall Direct V7 7A+ |
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Red Wall Traverse V8 7B |
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Right Side V5 6C |
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Right-to-Left Red Wall Traverse V7 7A+ |
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Standard Route V4 6B |
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Varney Direct Low V7 7A+ |
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| Type: | Boulder, 15 ft (5 m) |
| GPS: | 40.00275, -105.29689 |
| FA: | Eric Varney? |
| Page Views: | 1,638 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Dark Helmet on Nov 6, 2019 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is the SDS / low to Eric Varney Direct. Start matched on the lowest rail. The big left pod / heel jug is on for hands and feet, whereas it is off for Moffat Direct (V8). The crimp rail just below the soap dish is on. From the dish, move up to a not great, three finger left hand drag and then right to a two finger pocket. Finish by going left to a potato chip.
This is the more obvious and higher quality of the Eric Varney / Moffat lines, IMO.
Beta: https://vimeo.com/15000868#t=0m32s ... if you're taller, you'll need to get your right hip into the wall and throw a left heel into the jug near the start.
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