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Routes in Red Wall

A Short Cool Red One V9 7C
Center Left V4 6B
East Overhang Left V2 5+
East Overhang Right V3-4 6A+
Eric Varney Direct V5 6C
Gorilla Traverse V9 7C PG13
Griffith Direct V5 6C
Just Another Traverse V10 7C+
Moffat Direct V8 7B
Red Wall Direct V7 7A+
Red Wall Traverse V8 7B
Right Rght Side V3 6A
Right Side V4 6B
Standard Route V3-4 6A+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,711 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jordan Wood on Jan 22, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This problem starts on the flake below and right of the large pod and climbs through "Varney Direct".

Protection

Pad.

Photos

- No Photos -
Ian Civgin
la la land colorado
  V8-
Ian Civgin   la la land colorado
  V8-
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
A heads up on this problem as far as beta goes. I have found two videos claiming to show the Moffat Direct:

vimeo.com/2556941
youtube.com/watch?v=X9oc8f6…

They actually show the Varney Direct low start which is closer to V7

The real Moffat Direct does not use the big pod on the left for either hands or feet instead making a stout move from the low incut flake to the second thin crimp below the "soap dish." You can finish from here on Varney or from the three fingered crimp head right to the big pocket on the right side problem.

The confusion may stem from vague descriptions in the older Benningfield guide. Go instead to:
flagstaffmountainbouldering…

for the real beta on this and many other problems at Flag Jul 19, 2009
Jerry Moffat added this sds to Varney Direct during his first US trip in 1982. Mar 1, 2006