Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,859 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jordan Wood on Jan 22, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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This problem starts on the flake below and right of the large pod and climbs through "Varney Direct".




- No Photos -
Jerry Moffat added this sds to Varney Direct during his first US trip in 1982. Mar 1, 2006
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
A heads up on this problem as far as beta goes. I have found two videos claiming to show the Moffat Direct:


They actually show the Varney Direct low start which is closer to V7

The real Moffat Direct does not use the big pod on the left for either hands or feet instead making a stout move from the low incut flake to the second thin crimp below the "soap dish." You can finish from here on Varney or from the three fingered crimp head right to the big pocket on the right side problem.

The confusion may stem from vague descriptions in the older Benningfield guide. Go instead to:

for the real beta on this and many other problems at Flag Jul 19, 2009
Ian Civgin
la la land colorado
Ian Civgin   la la land colorado