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Routes in Red Wall

Type: Boulder
FA: [Pat Ament]
Page Views: 1,952 total, 9/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is one of Flag's classic hard problems, very height-dependent. Start with your left hand in the notorious sloping dish that is the right handhold for the [Eric Varney] route. (I use the crimp on the bottom of this dish) right hand in a little pocket. Smear your right foot in a slippery pod, and make a large reach for a shitty crystal, then bump again for a good obvious pod. It is a classic problem that should make even seasoned boulderers think twice.

Protection

Cheater stones.

Photos

Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Yesterday I did an interesting sit start to this problem. You start down and right on two obvious small crimps, just about where the little retaining wall is by the tree. LH to the 2-finger pocket, RH to a very thin sidepull, LH to the edge under the soap dish, RH to the 2-finger, LH to the soap dish and finish as for the regular problem. V8 at least maybe 9.

In the photo, I am standing on one of the starting crimps with my right foot. Feb 25, 2008
Nate26  
Just for the record, I did not think that it was easy because I was tall (6'3"). I couldn't use any of the normal feet without coming up and off the dish. I had to use some very odd foot movements, and it took me about 40 more tries than a V4 usually does. Sep 23, 2007
Jeffrey Struck
Portland
 
Jeffrey Struck   Portland
 
To do the "proper" Right Side of Red Wall, must you bump to the good pocket with your right (after pinching the crappy crystal/"edge")? That's the popular beta, but the one and only time I managed to get my ass up this problem is when I crossed with my left to the good pocket (from the dish). I had tried this problem for years...and of course, as the years go by, the holds get slicker & slicker, and the ground continues to erode! Of course, my ego tells me I did the problem, but maybe someone (Pat Ament, Bob Williams, Jim Holloway, et al.!) has a strict notion of the proper sequence... Aug 4, 2007
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
 
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
 
I didn't submit the first comment, but this problem is harder for shorter people.I think it is easier to use the crimp just below the dish, this is the first way I ever did it, whatever the case may be it is a hard problem because it requires technique as well as strength.

-pat Dec 13, 2002
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
Huh. I actually did not submit the comment you are responding to--maybe Myke or someone can change that to Anonymous Coward. I have no idea whether the person used my named on purpose or not. Oh well. Heck, maybe it was my brother as he makes a similar comment in his description.

FWIW, I've done this problem and it didn't seem particularly height dependent to me, but then again, I'm 5'11". Nov 22, 2002
adam brink
Boulder, CO
adam brink   Boulder, CO
No offense, but V6 and V7 for shorter people? Are you kidding? I've seen shorter people walk this line and heard no talk of it being as hard as just right. I know problems are different grades for different people but V7, or even V6, seems a bit much. This is a tricky, technical V4, it shouldn't feel easy no matter what your height. Nov 22, 2002
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
This is normally given V4, but is very height-dependent for someone at 52", this problem could be as hard as V7 for a six footer, it's probably pretty tame. Jan 1, 2001