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Routes in Red Wall

A Short Cool Red One V9 7C
Center Left V4 6B
East Overhang Left V2 5+
East Overhang Right V3-4 6A+
Eric Varney Direct V5 6C
Gorilla Traverse V9 7C PG13
Griffith Direct V4-5 6B+
Just Another Traverse V10 7C+
Moffat Direct V8 7B
Red Wall Direct V7 7A+
Red Wall Traverse V8 7B
Right Rght Side V3 6A
Right Side V5 6C
Standard Route V4 6B
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Type: Boulder
FA: probabbly Eric Varney
Page Views: 4,122 total · 19/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great problem! Vertical pocket pulling!

Start with your right hand in an infamous, sloping dish and left in the heel hook jug for the Center Left route. Cross over with the left to a small, not too good, three finger edge. Your right hand goes directly above it to a shallow, two finger pocket, left hand out to a good edge, then up. Tweaky.

Protection

#11 hex.

Photos

Owen Silver
Boulder, CO
 
Owen Silver   Boulder, CO
 
This is a really hard, but great problem. If you are taller than 5'11", it's possible to reach the right hand crimp without stepping your right foot up to the tiny marked hold, and that may make a difference for some. Mar 10, 2003
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
 
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
 
For full value start on the good incut flake just below the big jug on the left. A longish move to the soap dish joins the regular problem. For fuller value, there is a contrived sit start just to the right of the flake and jug(Off for hands and feet). Start on two small crimps and get a pretty small sidepull with the right hand.Pull past a couple of thin crimps to the three finger edge and finish. After comparison with problems such as Swiss Crisp Mix at Hueco, it may be worth V10. Strictly for connoisseurs of the ridiculous. Dec 27, 2003
I used the small crimp just below the pocket. Is it supposed to be "off"? Jan 22, 2006
Geoff Elson  
 
I second that question, it seems hard with the crimp but impossible with the slick dish. Jan 9, 2009
Geoff Elson  
 
Edit to previous, not impossible with the dish. The foot beta is way right. Also the flagstaffblogspot guide says either crimp or dish and I agree they seem about the same. Feb 21, 2009
jjc
denver
 
jjc   denver
 
I've done this problem multiple times. However, I was there last week and it seems that a pebble within the starting right hand dish has come out, making the start a bit easier. The tip of my middle finger gains some purchase on the new micro crater. Still a great problem! As far as the crimp being off, I think its harder to use the crimp that is just below the dish. Makes it harder to pivot off the right arm. Jul 24, 2009
R Sather
COLORADO
  V5
R Sather   COLORADO
  V5
Did Eric Varney Direct from the stand start (right hand in "soap dish" hold) and from a low SDS starting from the flake moving left to the "jug pod" and right hand into EVD's "soap dish" hold. I mistook the lower SDS for Moffat Direct, but upon reading the beta blog, the left "jug pod" is off for both hands and feet if attempting MD.

The lower SDS start from the flake seems like a more logical and straightforward line for EVD and doesn't really change the difficulty. In my opinion, the lower start makes a more appealing boulder problem. Not sure what others think, but hopefully this adds some clarification for others attempting EVD and other eliminate problems on the Red Wall. Jan 8, 2016

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