Avg: 3.3 from 7 votes
|Type:||Trad, 115 ft (35 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Ron Carson & Dick Leversee|
|Page Views:||756 total · 16/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Oct 28, 2019|
|Admins:||Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
The Light Side takes the attractive right-facing corner in the center of the Dihedrals area as it arches leftwards, then spectacularly pulls the roof above to a somewhat hidden anchor. It would be possible to link this in a single pitch but this is probably ill-advised if you're onsighting.
P1 (50', 5.11c): Climb a nice #1 Camalot layback to a stance below a steep tips crack. Load this up with micro gear and stem or lieback your way to glory and a spacious belay ledge with two bolts.
P2 (65', 5.11a PG13): Lieback up the 0.75/#1 Camalot crack through a little rooflet and on to a weird, slabby corner where the crack pinches down momentarily (this is near where the arete climb "Supernova" joins the route). Past this there is better gear. Keep climbing a bit further to a good foot ledge and rest. Reach out behind you to the lip of the roof. Blind pawing may uncover some tricky shallow stopper placements between patina fingertip buckets - hopefully yielding something encouraging enough to then commit to the roof (crux - would be a really ugly fall if the gear rips). Pull up and over to a bolted anchor. A 70m rope is enough to rap all the way to the ground from here.