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The Light Side
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British PG13
Avg: 3.3 from 7
votes
Routes in Voodoo Dome
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Crossbones T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Dihedral Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Emperor (aka Pea Soup), The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Light Side, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Momma Told Me Not to Come T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Random Neural Firing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Skull, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Summer Sojourn T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
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Voodoo Chimney TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Voodoo Chīle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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White Punks on Dope T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Ron Carson & Dick Leversee |
| Page Views: | 756 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Oct 28, 2019 |
| Admins: | Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
...of The Force: Call upon it for this fine route, but be warned, The Emperor might be a better warmup for this rather than the other way around.
The Light Side takes the attractive right-facing corner in the center of the Dihedrals area as it arches leftwards, then spectacularly pulls the roof above to a somewhat hidden anchor. It would be possible to link this in a single pitch but this is probably ill-advised if you're onsighting.
P1 (50', 5.11c): Climb a nice #1 Camalot layback to a stance below a steep tips crack. Load this up with micro gear and stem or lieback your way to glory and a spacious belay ledge with two bolts.
P2 (65', 5.11a PG13): Lieback up the 0.75/#1 Camalot crack through a little rooflet and on to a weird, slabby corner where the crack pinches down momentarily (this is near where the arete climb "Supernova" joins the route). Past this there is better gear. Keep climbing a bit further to a good foot ledge and rest. Reach out behind you to the lip of the roof. Blind pawing may uncover some tricky shallow stopper placements between patina fingertip buckets - hopefully yielding something encouraging enough to then commit to the roof (crux - would be a really ugly fall if the gear rips). Pull up and over to a bolted anchor. A 70m rope is enough to rap all the way to the ground from here.
The Light Side takes the attractive right-facing corner in the center of the Dihedrals area as it arches leftwards, then spectacularly pulls the roof above to a somewhat hidden anchor. It would be possible to link this in a single pitch but this is probably ill-advised if you're onsighting.
P1 (50', 5.11c): Climb a nice #1 Camalot layback to a stance below a steep tips crack. Load this up with micro gear and stem or lieback your way to glory and a spacious belay ledge with two bolts.
P2 (65', 5.11a PG13): Lieback up the 0.75/#1 Camalot crack through a little rooflet and on to a weird, slabby corner where the crack pinches down momentarily (this is near where the arete climb "Supernova" joins the route). Past this there is better gear. Keep climbing a bit further to a good foot ledge and rest. Reach out behind you to the lip of the roof. Blind pawing may uncover some tricky shallow stopper placements between patina fingertip buckets - hopefully yielding something encouraging enough to then commit to the roof (crux - would be a really ugly fall if the gear rips). Pull up and over to a bolted anchor. A 70m rope is enough to rap all the way to the ground from here.
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