Type: Trad, 115 ft (35 m), 2 pitches
FA: Ron Carson & Dick Leversee
Page Views: 756 total · 16/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Oct 28, 2019
Admins: Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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...of The Force: Call upon it for this fine route, but be warned, The Emperor might be a better warmup for this rather than the other way around.

The Light Side takes the attractive right-facing corner in the center of the Dihedrals area as it arches leftwards, then spectacularly pulls the roof above to a somewhat hidden anchor. It would be possible to link this in a single pitch but this is probably ill-advised if you're onsighting.

P1 (50', 5.11c): Climb a nice #1 Camalot layback to a stance below a steep tips crack. Load this up with micro gear and stem or lieback your way to glory and a spacious belay ledge with two bolts.

P2 (65', 5.11a PG13): Lieback up the 0.75/#1 Camalot crack through a little rooflet and on to a weird, slabby corner where the crack pinches down momentarily (this is near where the arete climb "Supernova" joins the route). Past this there is better gear. Keep climbing a bit further to a good foot ledge and rest. Reach out behind you to the lip of the roof. Blind pawing may uncover some tricky shallow stopper placements between patina fingertip buckets - hopefully yielding something encouraging enough to then commit to the roof (crux - would be a really ugly fall if the gear rips). Pull up and over to a bolted anchor. A 70m rope is enough to rap all the way to the ground from here.


The central right-facing corner at the Dihedrals area of Voodoo Dome.


2x from tiny to #1 Camalot.
3x 0.75 Camalots.


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