Avg: 2.8 from 17 votes
|Type:||Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Bender, Warender (1974)|
|Page Views:||4,295 total, 31/month|
|Shared By:||Matthew Fienup on Jul 25, 2006|
|Admins:||Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionPitch 1 (5.7)
Stem and jam an obvious deep crack system in a corner/gully. An offwidth section past a small roof is the crux. Belay from bolts on a sloping ledge beneath a striking dihedral with offwidth. (Alternately, climb a hand crack on the prow out to the left of the traditional start. This 5.8/5.9 crack leads to the same belay as the traditional start.)
Pitch 2 (5.6)
Stem the striking dihedral above the belay. The crack takes 3.5-4.5" (?). Easier crack climbing leads to a belay beneath a roof.
Pitch 3 (5.7/5.8)
Bypass the roof on the right (crux of route) and belay from a sloping ledge.
Pitch 4 (5.5)
Climb up then traverse left on slab to a dish and gear. Climb the water groove above to belay from bolts. The traverse and the runout up the groove is the pshychological crux for many.
Pitch 5 (5.4)
Continue up slab to a large belay ledge.
Pitch 6 (5.5)
Climb a headwall via chickenheads.