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Teenage Wasteland
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.4 from 42
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Routes in The Wasteland
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After the Before Thought S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Burial of the Dead, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fire Sermon, The T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rickson's Pinnacle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Roedel Route, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Teenage Wasteland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Teenage Wasteland (Sweeny Direct Variation) T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wasteland, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Scott Ayers, Mark Colby, 1996 |
| Page Views: | 1,555 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Hoste on Oct 20, 2019 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Note: This climb is different than the Teenage Wasteland (Sweeny Direct Variation) listed on MP. It is detailed in the Tanya Bok guidebook.
Pitch 1 - Climb the short right facing corner to the slab. Follow bolts over the bulge to the belay.
Pitch 2 - Up and right to the diagonal crack system. Exit the top of the cracks and trend up and left, crossing The Waste Land route and head for the shallow, left facing corner. Belay on large ledge, shared with The Fire Sermon.
Pitch 3 - Follow the bold line on the left, belay directly below roof.
Pitch 4 - Surmount the roof and then easy climbing on ears and slab to the top.
Pitch 1 - Climb the short right facing corner to the slab. Follow bolts over the bulge to the belay.
Pitch 2 - Up and right to the diagonal crack system. Exit the top of the cracks and trend up and left, crossing The Waste Land route and head for the shallow, left facing corner. Belay on large ledge, shared with The Fire Sermon.
Pitch 3 - Follow the bold line on the left, belay directly below roof.
Pitch 4 - Surmount the roof and then easy climbing on ears and slab to the top.
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