Teenage Wasteland (Sweeny Direct Variation)
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 600 ft, 5 pitches|
|Page Views:||1,158 total, 21/month|
|Shared By:||Angel Mangual on Apr 8, 2013|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
Route DescriptionThis route is right of Wasteland. The crux will be finding the third and fourth pitches, but the last pitch goes over a roof with two bolts that will make it the definite crux of the entire route for me. This route is great and protects very well. It will give you a great adventure on some moderate climb. I am not sure if we did the correct third and fourth pitch but here is what we did.
1st Pitch (5.10a). It is a combination of trad and sport. It starts up and right from the big tree below the wasteland. Look for the line of bolts just right of a loan tree. It starts with a short crack that will take you to the first bolt. Follow the bolts and go over small roof to two fixed anchors.
2nd Pitch (5.10a). Follow three bolts that will take you to a finger crack that takes good but small pro. Follow the crack and traverse to a single bolt over a bulge to two fix anchors.
3rd Pitch (5.9 PG-13). It is here where the adventure for me begins. There are two bolts and the rest is pro. The first bolt is after the anchors and over the roof. You will end up right of Wasteland chimney. We stayed right and underneath the roof towards a lonely and scary bolt. Keep going up and right from the bolt until a ledge with some ok natural (Chicken head and a small crack) for pro.
4th Pitch (5.8). From the ledge go right and up following the chicken heads. The chicken heads will take you over the anchors of FireSermon. You can use FireSermon anchors or use some of the handful chicken heads to build a natural pro.
5th Pitch (5.10b). This will go over a roof with two bolts. After the roof follow some chicken head to a crack and build a natural anchor on top of Wasteland.
Like Mike said, the third and fourth pitch might be a variation but worth doing. IMO one of the best routes I have done in the East Stronghold for its grade.