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Routes in The Wasteland

Fire Sermon, The T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Teenage Wasteland (Sweeny Direct Variation) T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wasteland, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 600 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,085 total, 17/month
Shared By: Geir on Nov 3, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

A four pitch route that shares the start of the Wasteland.

If you are interested in a topo for this route, feel free to PM me and I will send you one. You can also get one by registering at the toofasttopos website.

Pitch 1 (5.9, 160'): Start at the grungy corner that the Wasteland also begins at. Climb up and left on to the ledge, then work your way up to an obvious thread-through with many slings on it. Clip the slings and stem through a 15' high concave section protected by two bolts. Follow a pillar-like feature straight up toward two trees. Belay at a bolted anchor between the trees on a comfortable ledge.

Pitch 2 (5.9, 120'): Climb up and a bit right following bolts protecting a slab. As the slab ends you will climb through some broken rock to a ledge. Only a few pieces are needed on this pitch.

Pitch 3 (5.10-, 170'): Work your way up past four bolts, then move left to a ramp. Climb the ramp and continue up on bolts and gear to big chickenheads. Traverse directly right (above the first big roof on the Wasteland) to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 4 (5.10-, 160'): Climb up and slightly right to a bolt on the right side of a small roof. Clip it and traverse right toward a steep-looking corner. Get into the corner (the crux) and climb it to its end. Clip a final bolt and climb another 30' of easy ground to a two bolt anchor at the top.

Use the Wasteland rappels to descend.

Location

Start to the left of the Wasteland below a large thread through with a number of slings wrapped around it.

Protection

Stoppers, singles of cams from tiny to #3 Camalot.

Photos

On Jan 2, 1992, I led Teri Ebel up the first pitch of what is now this route, before traversing right, onto the Wasteland's second pitch. There were no in situ bolts or slings on what is now this route. Because of the lack of good pro, I thought this was 5.10.

I had overlooked the inobvious original start to the Wasteland. Because our late start, the long approach and short day, we rapped three times from the top of Wasteland's third pitch, using two ropes. On the last rap to the ground, my route-finding mistake became evident. Jan 10, 2017
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
A topo for this route can be downloaded from here:

toofasttopos.com/free/ Mar 25, 2014
Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.10-
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.10-
I enjoyed the first 2 pitches. At the top of the 2nd, I would recommend traversing right for the amazing 3rd pitch of The Wasteland (at top of the chimney). After that you can continue on the Wasteland to the summit or rejoin TFS for the top out. Be warned though, the 4th pitch corner of TFS is literally covered in bird sh*%. Jan 3, 2014
Mike Diesen
Sierra Vista, AZ
Mike Diesen   Sierra Vista, AZ
Contrary to Geir's description this route is spectacular from bottom to top. If you're going to take the time to do this route do not finish on Wasteland. The 4th pitch is a must do. Apr 8, 2013
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
"He, the young man carbuncular, arrives,
A small house-agent’s clerk, with one bold stare,
One of the low on whom assurance sits
As a silk hat on a Bradford millionaire." Nov 4, 2012