Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches
GPS: 31.94542, -109.96929
FA: Scott Ayers, Matt Roedel, Mark Colby, Scott McNamara, 1998
Page Views: 864 total · 11/month
Shared By: Ben Hoste on Oct 28, 2019 · Updates
Admins: adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Great climb. Although there are many bolts on the climb, route finding is needed to figure out the best path to follow. Great line. 

P1 | 5.10 | 100' - Climb seam with bolts, then traverse left beneath the large roof, take care to avoid very loose blocks. Surmount roof and belay on ledge above.

P2 | 5.10 | 100' - Follow bolts up and left and then trend diagonally right on easy ground to belay just beyond alcove and to the right of the arete that forms a sweeping, arching right leaning overhang dihedral.

P3 | 5.9 | 180' - Step left and up onto the arete paste two bolts and crux. Then awesome climbing on ears, plates, and chicken heads to beneath roof. Move up and right through the weakness in the roof(s) to belay bolts.

P4 | 5.10+ | 120' - Trend diagonally up and right around prow and climb up to be right beneath a vague crack in a vague open book, step right and then up slab following bolts to final roof. Pull around roof at the bolt and then easy climbing to the top.

Location Suggest change

Furtherest right bolted line on Waste Land Dome, uphill from Teenage Wasteland. 

Protection Suggest change

1x from 00-#3, 2x from 0.2-0.4. Stoppers. Extra in the pinky-thumb size (BD #6-10 or blue/red dmm offset size) are nice for P3.

Photos

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