Type: Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches
FA: Trevor Bowman and Zach Harrison 5/5/19
Page Views: 885 total · 55/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Sep 20, 2019
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


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Description

Sandrailin' shares a start with Dune Buggyin', before embarking on a meandering journey up the impressive hanging arete and roof-adorned face immediately left of the corner systems of Dune Buggyin'. It serves up lots of cool passages through improbable-looking features that climb surprisingly friendly thanks to an abundance of juggy patina and rails.

It is a bit scruffier still than its neighbors to the right, due to more lichen on the steep slabs, but should clean up quickly with some traffic. It has a bit more committing feel than Dune Buggyin', due to the fact that the undercut nature of the hanging arete prevents this from being a feasible rappel route. The anchors aren't equipped for rappel, and while you could probably bail with some shenanigans (swinging and abandoned directional biners), it's best to be prepared to get to the top.

P1--Same first pitch as Dune Buggyin'. (.11, 90')

P2--Start up P2 of Dune Buggyin', following the corner for 15' or so to an obvious horizontal leading left onto the beautiful hanging arete. Follow bolts upward, with a low crux and an incipient tips crack (the only gear placement besides the initial ones in Dune Buggyin's corner) leading to a spectacular sequence that forces one out onto the very airy prow. Veer back right and up the progressively easier slab to the killer perch of the "Space Pig" belay. (.11-, 90')

P3--Rad rails on black rock lead to a roof, with an awesome pull on surprising features. Stem up a short, hanging, left-facing corner and pull around into a crack. Steep slab leads to another roof, and a final sporty run to the belay shelf. (.10, 80')

P4--Step right on jugs to get atop a small arch feature above the belay. Venture back left and up to a triangular inset in the larger roof system and pull the roof past a bolt. Follow bolts up past a second, smaller roof to another shelf belay. (.10, 80')

P5--A few sporty face moves get you into a nice left-facing dihedral. Stem and jam until just below the "Great Barrier Roof" system capping the face. Bust a crux traverse on crunchy sand rails past a couple of bolts out a sneaky hanging panel in the roof's defenses to a ledge. A tricky slab standup move leads to a bit more slab and easier runout terrain to a large, rubble ledge immediately below the summit. Belay here on one bolt backed up with gear or a tied-off tree. (.11, 120')

Location

Same start as Dune Buggyin'.

Rap Dune Buggyin' in five rappels with a single 70m rope.

Protection

(1X) .2-#2 BD Camalots
(2X) .3, .4
A dozen slings and draws.
(1X) 70m rope

Photos