Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches
FA: Trevor Bowman, Blake McCord, Zach Harrison 5/5/19
Page Views: 789 total · 27/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on May 20, 2019
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


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Description

The only route so far off of the hanging peninsula right of the other "Black Wall" routes. It takes a line up a jumbled, inobvious facet, linking clean panels that become obvious once you're below them, but don't stand out as much from afar. The rock is slightly crustier than the other stone up here, as this buttress faces down canyon (slightly southeast) and gets more sun throughout the day than anything else up here. Also, the features on this buttress are slightly tilted, and present more open-handed and gently down-sloping holds than the rest of the climbs in the cirque. Regardless, it offers up more cool face climbing on generally great Coconino that would be more at home in Red Rocks than Sedona.

P1--Tiptoe out the hanging ledge past the belay bolt for "Fondling" to the end of the ledge and a belay bolt. Ramble up a left-facing corner on the best rock in Sedona. 5.7, 50'

P2--Ramble right over the blocky hanging peninsula to the start of P2 next to some mid-sized trees. Face climb up, with gear in a small pod, to clip the 1st bolt and tiptoe right to an arete and past 2 more bolts to the obvious left-leaning crack/feature. Proceed up this awesome podded psuedo-crack, clipping some bolts, and possibly moving right after the 5th bolt of the pitch on good face holds that orbit back into the crack on a handrail. The crack ends on a tilted ledge, traverse right past a bolt, keep going right and place some tiny gear in a horizontal, keep right and boulder to the next ledge, traverse left past a final bolt and wander to the huge ledge. Clip the high anchor (placed for rock quality) and extend a leash to belay comfortably on the ledge. 5.11c, 120'

P3--Cut left and boulder onto a block, pass strange sloping jugs past 2 bolts and a cruxy bit to featured slab, look for some good tiny gear in a horizontal (.2 and red C3ish) and continue up onto the steep arete, with cool features on the left side. Finish up past the last bolt onto the easier right side. 5.11-, 90'

P4--Step left, fingers gear in a left-facing, short corner to a ledge, traverse right to a bolt line, and follow steep, blocky jug face to the top. Belay off of 1 bolt and a .2 piece. Traverse 15' left (west) to rap anchor on goofy fin of good rock amidst horizontal plate-land. 5.10, 90'

Location

Traverse out the hanging ledge right of Dune Buggyin' and Chaos. Belay bolt below an obvious, slabby left-facing corner marks the start.

Rap the route with a single 70m rope. 

Protection

Bolts
(1X) .2-#1
(1X) #3
(2X) .4-#.75
Slings.
(1X) 70m rope

Photos

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