Type: Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches
FA: Z Harrison, T. Bowman
Page Views: 5,312 total · 81/month
Shared By: Blake M on Dec 2, 2018
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

DON'T RUIN THIS ROUTE Suggest change


The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a storm, the rock will remain wet for at least several days, and even longer after snow storms and areas with shady aspects. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB THESE ROUTES during or after rain/snow. This route and its neighbors see very little to no sun in the winter months and will dry very slowly. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

Description Suggest change

A quality line up a series of corners. While no pitch is standout, each pitch has awesome stone and engaging, sustained climbing.

Pitch 1 5.11   Romp slab on awesome water polished rock! to bulging crux into small corner. Blast left to stance and Belay.

Pitch 2 5.11   Cruise the corner past 2 bolts, pull left around the roof then back right into another corner past a stemming crux to a nice ledge.

Pitch 3  5.11   Gingerly climb a flake with bolts to the corner with sporadic gear. At the looming roof step right past a bolt into another corner and climb up this to a belay on the left.

Pitch 4   5.11   Step right into the corner climb past a fist crack to Rainbow Wall simulation crux. Climb the face past a bolt then surmount the roof and swim easy crack to giant ledge with cactus buddies.

pitch 5   5.10-  Climb past a short finger crack to bolts on a patina slab. Summit!!!

Rap route with 70m

Location Suggest change

Back of the right fork of Fay Canyon. Climbs a series of obvious corners on black varnish.
Starts 50' left of Fondling Chaos's Daughter just behind a pine tree on a small ledge. 

Protection Suggest change

Med nuts
1x 00-0C3
2x 1c3-#2
1x #3
4 draws
5 runners