Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Scottish Cannons
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 1.7 from 3
votes
Early Access
Routes in Renaissance Wall
|
|
Consequences T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Dakota S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Decisions T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Don Quixote T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Dulcinea T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
|
|
Folly T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Pharoah's Child T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Renaissance Wall S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Scottish Cannons T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Trials of Copernicus (P1) T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.4064, -105.53474 |
| FA: | Gross, Hunsaker, Barlerin |
| Page Views: | 832 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Gross on Sep 10, 2019 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2026 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted
Details
From the Denver Post 7/21/24: some of the raptor closures have been lifted, officials announced.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
Hard to say if all or sections of this route have been climbed before. Rock has a fresh feel and seemed unclimbed and a little scruffy. Please let me know if you climbed this before. Happy to change the name/route info here. Regardless a fun unique route with mid day shade.
P1 has fun, steep climbing! Follow a left-facing corner up to a tooth-looking feature in the center of the wall 25 feet up. From there, head up and right on a slanting finger crack. Along the way, enjoying some restful kneebars! The anchor is a large tree up and right of the route, 20 meters.
P2 is more of a approach pitch to pitch 3. Traverse right and up for 130 feet on easy ledge system/ 5.5 terrain, gain a short chimney, 5.8. Climb up chimney and into a hidden corridor ( behind "Country Boy Pillar"). Belay at first crack system on right wall above Chimney. Make a finger/hands size gear belay, 60 meters.
P3. Climb a splitter crack on the right wall of the gully. Use the same crack as belay. This is a 120 foot long crack. This pitch jumps crack systems at midpoint in brown rock up and right at #2 Camalot pod. Follow finger and hand crack to the rim. Belay off a big tree 50 feet back from rim of the wall. This is fun, pumpy crack climbing on good rock, 35 meters.
Location
It is directly across from "Pharoah's Child" in the Renaissance Wall gully on the east-facing wall. It is on the left side of Renaissance Wall Gully on the bottom of gully.
0 Comments