Type: Snow, Alpine, Grade II
GPS: 48.53755, -121.13436
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,083 total · 14/month
Shared By: M R on Aug 22, 2019
Admins: Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan

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Description Suggest change

This route is a reasonable option if you are returning from Dorados Needle, or Austera/Klawatti, and would like to also summit Eldorado in the same day. It allows you to avoid most, or some, of the East Ridge route for the ascent, which is mostly a hiking trail on rock in late Summer. Albeit contrived, one can also readily climb this route from the standard 7400' camp at the base of the east ridge by traversing half the Inspiration glacier at the usual 7800' then taking a hard left back across the northeast face of Eldorado to the upper East Ridge. Depending on the month, there will be multiple lines available for the northeast face (see photos): e.g., in August, there was a low traverse (option #1; easy snow) that traverses the northeast face below a significant crevasse that crosses most of the northeast face (the crevasse is at 8100'), a high traverse (option #2; moderate snow) above this crevasse but below the bergshrund/rockband (the 'shrund is at about 8400'), and a direct (option #3; moderate to steep snow; may have AI2+ ice) line where you traverse above the bergshrund and avoid the rock portion of the east ridge completely. This latter option may not go pending numerous crevasses one must get around or cross high on the northeast face--it may also required pitched ice/snow climbing.

(Of note, there is a route in Selected Climbs of the Cascades, Vol 2, titled the Northeast Face of Eldorado which is an ice climb different from what is described here. That route follows the east ridge route until the bergshrund, where one breaks climbers right and ascends various ice lines through both the bergshrund and the ice face above it, which is usually AI3-4.)

Location Suggest change

The large triangular snow and ice face (i.e., the northeast face of Eldorado) that is off climbers right of the standard East Ridge route. Descend the East Ridge route.

Protection Suggest change

Crevasse rescue gear. Also, depending on the line you choose and current conditions, pickets and/or ice screws.

Photos

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